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A DIARY OF A JOURNEY 



INTO 



NORTH WALES, 

IN THE YEAR 1774; 
3Y SAMUEL JOHNfON, LL. D. 

EDITED, WITH ILLUSTRATIVE NOTES, 

BY R. DUPPA, LL. B. 

Barrister at Law. 



FOR SALE 



AT THE 



PORT FOLIO OFFICE. 

the lay preacher, by Joseph Derinie. 
the descent of liberty, by Leigh Hunt. 
moore's melodies, and Sacred Songs. 
hall's Law Journal, 5 vols. 

Emeirgon. 

— Practice of the Admiralty Courts. 

the pastor's fire side, anew novel by 

Miss Porter. 
tales of my landlord, attributed to 

Walter Scott. 

And generally 

All the New Publications of merit, 



VSde P. 37. 

Y^*L v^M^-, <^L 7\v^ L/VL, 



Y 



fa, -,ts /////, /y __/. '/(>//-//.jf'//,> rut /u/ sr?//s //a 



DIARY OF A TOUR 



IN 



NORTH WALES, 

IN THE YEAR 1774. 

TO WHICH IS ADDED 

AN ESSAY ON THE CORN LAWS. 

BY SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D, 



I should like to read ALL that Ogden has written. 

Johnson 

if \/ 

\%^ 

PHILADELPHIA: 
PUBLISHED BY HARRISON HALL, 

AT THE PORT FOLIO OFFICE. 
J. Maxwell, Printer. 

1817, 

c 



- 



TO EDWARD SWINBURNE, Esq. 

From an uninterrupted intimacy of 
nearly twenty years, I claim the privi- 
lege of dedicating these pages to you. 

Dr. Johnson, for his moral and ethi- 
cal writings, has been too long celebrat- 
ed, to give his name any additional 
claim to your attention: but when you 
read his comparison of the beauties of 
Hawkestone and Ham, you will per- 
ceive, perhaps for the first time, that he 
was equally interested in those beauties 
of nature which have so often delighted 
you, and which you have so often ex- 
quisitely represented. 

a2 



This fragment, as a literary curio- 
sity, I hope will not disappoint you; for 
although it may not contain any striking 
and important facts, or luminous pas- 
sages of fine writing, it cannot be unin- 
teresting to know how the mind of such 
a man as Johnson received new impres- 
sions, or contemplated for the first time 
scenes and occupations unknown to him 
before. 

Accept, therefore, this gift from one 
who has great pleasure in subscribing 
himself 

Your sincere friend, 

R. DUPPA. 

Lincoln's Inn y Sept. 18, 1816. 



PREFACE. 

To publish whatever has fallen from 
the pen of a celebrated author has been 
reckoned among the vices of our time; 
but those who admire great or extraor- 
dinary qualities have also a desire to 
know the individual to whom they be- 
long, and to have his likeness and his 
portrait, as if he were one of ourselves. 

This Journal of Dr. Johnson exhi- 
bits his mind when he was alone, when 
no one was looking on, and when no one 
was expected to adopt his thoughts, or 
to be influenced by them: in this re- 
spect it differs from the conversations 
and anecdotes already published: it has 
also another value, highly interesting; it 
shows how his mind was influenced bv 



the impression of external things, and 
in what way he recorded those facts, 
which he laid up for future reflection. 

His "Journey to the Western Isl- 
ands of Scotland," was probably com- 
posed from a diary not more ample: for 
of that work he says, " I deal more in 
notions than in facts:" and this is the ge- 
neral character of his mind; though 
when Boswell expressed a fear, lest his 
journal should be encumbered with 
too many minute particulars, he said, 
" There is nothing, sir, too little for so 
little a creature as man. It is by study- 
ing little things that we attain the great 
art of having as little misery, and as 
much happiness, as possible." 

Dr. Johnson commenced his journey 
into Wales, July 5, 1774, in company 
with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, and their 
daughter, now lady Keith, and returned 
August 25th. 



On the same morning that he left 
Streatham, he wrote a letter to his friend, 
Bennet Langton, in which he informs 
him of this excursion, and of the state 
of his health. 

"I have just begun to print my 
Journey to the Hebrides, and am leav- 
ing the press, to take another journey 
into Wales, whither Mr* Thrale is go- 
ing, to take possession of at least five 
hundred a year, fallen to his lady. 

" I have never recovered from the 
last dreadful illness, but I flatter myself 
that I grow better: much, however, yet 
remains to mend." 

In the prosecution of this tour, what- 
ever was his own gratification or disap- 
pointment, he appears but little to have 
gratified the curiosity of others; for Bos- 
well says, " I do not find that he kept 



10 

any journal, or notes of what he saw in 
his tour in Wales. All that I heard him 
say of it was, that instead of bleak and 
barren mountains, there were green and 
fertile ones; and that one of the castles 
in Wales would contain all the castles 
that he had seen in Scotland." 

This Diary, which is now for the 
first time presented to the public, will 
fill up the chasm in the Life of Johnson, 
which his biographer was unable to 
supply. 

For its authenticity, I will pledge 
myself: but if there should be any who 
are desirous to gratify their curiosity, or 
to satisfy their judgment, the original 
MS. in the hand-writing of Dr. John- 
son, is in the possession of the publisher, 
where it may at any time be seen. 

The editor acknowledges his obli- 
gation to Mrs. Piozzi, for her kind as- 



11 

sistance in explaining many facts in this 
Diary, which could not otherwise have 
been understood. 



A JOURNEY 

* INTO 

NORTH WALES, 

IN 
THE YEAR 1774. 

July 5, Tuesday. We left Strea- 
tham* 11 a. m. 

Price of 4 horses 2s. a mile. 

6. Barnet 1 40' p. m. 

On the road I read Tally's Epistles. 

At night at Dunstable. 

* A village in Surry, about six miles from 
London; the residence of Mr. Thrale. During 
the life of Mr. Thrale, his house was the resort 
of the most eminent and distinguished charac- 
ters of his time. Here Johnson was domesti- 
cated, and Garrick, and Goldsmith, and Burke? 
and sir Joshua Reynolds, were often found. 



14 

To Lichfield, 83 miles. 
To the Swan.* 
7. To the cathedral. 
To Mrs. Porter's.f 

* When at this place Mrs. Thrale gives an 
anecdote of Johnson, to show his minute atten- 
tion to things which might reasonably have been 
supposed out of the range of his observation. 
" When I came down to breakfast at the inn, 
my dress did not please him, and he made me 
alter it entirely before he would stir a step with 
us about the town, saying most satirical things 
concerning the appearance I made in a riding- 
habit; and adding, i 'Tis very strange that such 
eyes as yours cannot discern propriety of dress: 
if I had a sight only half as good, I think I 
should see to the centre.' " 

Johnson has contrived to introduce the city 
of Lichfield into his dictionary of the English 
language, from its having been the place of his 
birth. " Lichfield, the field of the dead, a city 
in Staffordshire, so named from martyred chris- 
tians. Salve magna parens," 

t Mrs. Lucy Porter. A step-daughter to 
Dr. Johnson. Her brother, a captain in the 
navy, had left her a fortune of ten thousand 



IS 

To Mrs. Aston's.* / 

To Mr. Green's.f 
Mr, Green's museum was much ad- 
mired, and 

Mr. Newton's! china. 

pounds; about a third of which she laid out in 
building a stately house, and making a hand- 
some garden, in an elevated situation in Lich- 
field. Johnson, when he visited Lichfield alone, 
lived at her house. She reverenced him, and 
he had a parental tenderness for her. Appen- 
dix 1. 

* Mrs. Elizabeth Aston, a daughter of sir 
Thomas Aston. She lived at Stow Hill, an emi- 
nence adjoining to Lichfield. Appendix 2. 

t Mr. Richard Green was an apothecary, 
and related to Dr. Johnson He had a consider- 
able collection of antiquities, natural curiosi- 
ties, and ingenious works of art. He had all the 
articles accurately arranged, with their names 
upon labels, and on the stair-case leading to it 
was a board, with the names of contributors 
marked in gold letters. A printed catalogue of 
the collection was to be had at a bookseller's. 

% Mr. Newton was a gentleman, long resi- 



16 

8. To Mr. Newton's. To Mrs. 
Cobb's.* 

Dr. Darwin's.f I went again to 
Mrs. Aston's. She was very sorry to 
part. 

dent in Lichfield, who had acquired a large for- 
tune in the East Indies. 

* Mrs. Cobb was a widow lady, who lived 
at a place called the Friary, close to Lichfield. 
She was a great admirer ol Johnson, though it 
would seem, if miss Seward's statement be 
correct, he had but little admiration for her. 
" Mrs. Cobb knows nothing, has read nothing; 
and where nothing is put into the brain, nothing 
can come out of it to any purpose of rational 
entertainment." Miss Seward, however, ob- 
serves, that although she was illiterate, her un- 
derstanding was strong, her perceptions quick, 
her wit shrewd, comic, sarcastic, and original. 

t Dr. Erasmus Darwin. At this time he 
lived at Lichfield, where he had practised as a 
physician from the year 1756, and did not settle 
at Derby till after his second marriage with 
Mrs. Pool, in the year 1781. 



17 

9. Breakfasted at Mr. Garrick's.* 
Visited miss Vyse.f 
Miss Seward. $ 

Miss Seward says, that although Dr, John- 
son visited Lichfield while Dr. Darwin lived 
there, they had only one or two interviews, and 
never afterwards sought each other. Mutual 
and strong dislike subsisted between them. Dr. 
Darwin died April 18, 1802. in the sixty-ninth 
year of his age, 

* This gentleman was Mr. Peter Garrick, 
brother to David Garrick, and bore a striking 
resemblance to him. Johnson speaking of him 
to Boswell says, " Sir, I don't know but if Peter 
had cultivated all the arts of gayety as much as 
David has done, he might have been as brisk 
and lively. Depend upon it, sir, vivacity is 
much an art, and depends greatly on habit." 

t A daughter of the Rev. archdeacon Vjse, 
of the diocess of Lichfield and Coventry. 

^ Miss Seward was the daughter of the Rev. 
Thomas Seward, canon-residentiary of the cathe- 
dral of Lichfield. Six volumes of letters by 
this lady, published since her death, have put 
the public in full possession of the kind of inti- 

b2 



18 

Went to Dr. Taylor's.* 

I read a little on the road in Tully's 

Epistles and Martial, 

Mart. 8th, 44, lino pro linio.f 

Morning, at church. Company at 

dinner. 

11. At Ham. At Oakover. I was 

less pleased with Ham than when I saw 
it first, but my friends were much de- 
lighted 4 , 

macy, or friendship which subsisted between 
her and Dr. Johnson. 

* Dr. Taylor, of Ashbourne, in Derbyshire. 
Dr. Johnson's old friend and schoolfellow; of 
whom he said, — " He is better acquainted with 
my heart than any man or woman now living.'' 
Afifi. 3. 

t The verse in Martial is 
" Defluat, et lento splendescat turbida limo." 
The epigram is addressed to Flaccus, and in 
the common editions of Martial it has the num- 
ber 45, and not 44. 

\ Ham is the celebrated residence of Mr. 
Porte, at the entrance of Dovedale. Notwith- 



19 

12. At Chatsworth. The water 
willow. The cascade, shot out from 
many spouts. The fountains. The 

standing Johnson was less pleased with his se- 
cond visit to Ham than the first, yet he has in 
this Diary given very ample proof that he en- 
joyed its beauties. 

In July, 1777, Dr. Johnson took Boswell to 
see this place, which would seem to be the third 
time, at least, that he had been there; and this 
is the account Boswell gives of the visit. " I 
recollect a very fine amphitheatre, surrounded 
with hills, covered with woods, and walks neatly 
formed along the side of a rocky steep, on the 
quarter next the house, with recesses under pro- 
jections of rock, overshadowed with trees; in 
one of which recesses, we were told, Congreve 
wrote his "Old Bachelor." We viewed a remark- 
able natural curiosity at Ham; two rivers bursting 
near each other from the rock, not from imme- 
diate springs, but after having run for many miles 
under ground. Plott, in his " History ot Staf- 
fordshire," gives an account of this curiosity; 
but Johnson would not believe it, though we had 
the attestation of the gardener, who said, he had 
put in corks, where the river Manyfold sinks 



20 

water tree. The smooth floors in the 
highest rooms* Atlas, fifteen hands inch 
and half.* 

River running through the park. 
The porticoes on the sides support two 
galleries for the first floor. 

My friends were not struck with the 
house. It fell below my ideas of the fur- 
niture. The staircase is in the corner 
of the house. The hall in the corner, 
the grandest room, though only a room 
of passage. 

On the ground-floor, only the chapel 
aftd the breakfast-room, and a small li- 

into the ground* and had catched them in a net 
placed before one of the openings where the 
water burst out, 

* This was a race-horse, which was very 
handsome and very gentle, and attracted so much 
of Dr Johnson's attention, that he said; |C of all 
the duke*s possessions, I like Atlas best,'* 



21 

brary; the rest, servants' rooms and of- 
fices/ 

A bad inn. 

13. At Matlock. 

14. At dinner at Oakover; too deaf 
to hear, or much converse, f Mrs. Gell. 

The chapel at Oakover. The wood 

* This is the second time Johnson had visited 
Chatsworth. He saw it, Nov. 26, 1772; and in 
a letter to Mrs Thrale, he says, " Chatsworth is 
a very fine house. I wish you had been with 
me to see it; for then, as we are apt to want 
matter of talk, we should have gained something 
new to talk on. They complimented me with 
playing the fountain, and opening the cascade. 
But I am of my friend's opinion, that when one 
has seen the ocean, cascades are but little 
things." 

t Dr. Johnson's hearing was very defective, 
and a cold made him too deaf to enjoy society. 
In a letter to Mrs. Thrale, Sept. 14, 1773, he 
says, " I have a cold, and am miserably deaf;" 
and on the 2 1 st he says, " I am now too deaf to 
take the usual pleasure in conversation." 



22 

of the pews grossly painted. I could 
not read the epitaph. Would learn the 
old hands. 

15. At Ashbourn. Mrs. Diot and 
her daughters came in the morning. 
Mrs. Diot dined with us. We visited 
Mr. Flint. 

16. At Dovedale, with Mr. Langley 
and Mr. Flint. It is a place that de- 
serves a visit; but did not answer my 
expectation. The river is small, the 
rocks are grand. Reynard's hall is a 

* « From the Muses, sir Thomas More bore 
away the first crown, Erasmus the second, and 
Micyllus has the third." 

Jacobus Micyllus, whose real name was Mel- 
eher,died 1558, aged 55, In the MS. Johnson 
has introduced yg tv by the side of el**** as if he 
were doubtful whether that tense ought not to 
have been adopted. 



23 

cave very high in the rock; it goes back- 
ward several yards, perhaps eight. To 
the left is a small opening, through 
which I crept, and found another cavern, 
perhaps four yards square; at the back 
was a breach yet smaller, which I could 
not easily have entered, and, wanting 
light, did not inspect. 

I was in a cave yet higher, called 
Reynard's Kitchen. There is a rock 
called the Church, in which I saw no re- 
semblance that could justify the name, * 

Dovedale is about two miles long. 
We walked towards the head of the 
Dove, which is said to rise about five 
miles above two caves called the Dog- 
holes, at the foot of Dovedale. 

In one place, where the rocks ap- 
proached, I proposed to build an arch 

* This rock is supposed rudely to resemble 
a tower; hence, it has been called the Church. 



24 

from rock to rock over the stream, with 
a summer-house upon it. 

The water murmured pleasantly 
among the stones. 

I thought that the heat and exercise 
mended my hearing. I bore the fatigue 
of the walk, which was very laborious, 
without inconvenience. 

There were with us Gilpin* and Par- 
ker, f Having heard of this place be- 
fore, I had formed some imperfect idea, 
to which it did not answer. Brown says 
he was disappointed. I certainly expect- 
ed a large river where I found only a 
clear quick brook. I believe I had ima- 

* Mr. Gilpin was an accomplished youth, at 
this time an undergraduate at Oxford. His fa- 
ther was a silversmith in London. 

t John Parker, of Brownsholme, in Lanca- 
shire, Esq. 



25 

gincd a valley enclosed by rocks, and 
terminated by a broad expanse of water. 

He that has seen Dovedale has no 
need to visit the Highlands** 

In the afternoon we visited old Mrs. 
Dale.f 

17. Sunday morning, at church — 

Afternoon, at Mr. Diot's. 

18. Dined at Mr. Gell's.J 

* Mr, Whately, who visited Dovedale at 
this time, has given a finished description of it, 
and he felt the beauties of nature, and described 
them better, than any author I am acquainted 
with. See Afifi. 4. 

t Mrs. Dale was at this time 93 years of 
age. 

\ Mr. Gell, of Hopton hall, a short distance 
from Carsington, in Derbyshire; the father of 
sir William Gell, well known for his topogra- 
phy of Troy, and other literary works; born 
1775. « July 12, 1775, Mr. Gell is now re- 
joicing, at fifty-seven, for the birth of an heir- 
male." Dr. Johnson to Mrs. Thrale. 



26 

19. We went to Kedleston* to see 
lord Scarsdale's new house, which is 
very costly, but ill contrived. The hall 
is very stately, lighted by three skylights; 
it has two rows of marble pillars, dug, as 
I hear from Langley, in a quarry of 

* In the year 1777, Dr. Johifson and Bos- 
well visited Kedleston together: and it is inter- 
esting to compare Boswell's account with this 
which is written by Johnson himself when he 
visited it three years before that time. 

" Friday, September 19, after breakfast, 
Dr. Johnson and I set out in Dr. Taylor's 
chaise to go to Derby. The day was fine, and 
we resolved to go by Kedleston, the seat of 
lord Scarsdale, that I might see his lordship's 
fine house. I was struck with the magnificence 
of the building; and the extensive park, with 
the finest verdure, covered with deer, and cattle, 
and sheep, delighted me. The number of old 
oaks, of an immense size, filled me with a sort 
of respectful admiration: for one of them sixty 
pounds was offered. The excellent smooth gra- 
vel roads; the large piece of water formed by 
his lordship from some small brooks, with a 



27 

Northamptonshire; the pillars are very 
large and massy, and take up too much 
room; they were better away. Behind 
the hall is a circular saloon, useless, and 
therefore ill contrived. 

The corridors that join the wings to 
the body are mere passages through seg- 
ments of circles. The state bedcham- 

handsome barge upon it; the venerable Gothic 
church, now the family chapel, just by the 
house; in short, the grand group of objects agi- 
tated and distended my mind in a most agreea- 
ble manner. " One should think (said I) that 
the proprietor of all this must be happy." "Nay, 
sir, (said Johnson,) all this excludes but one 
evil — poverty." 

" Our names were sent up, and a well-drest 
elderly housekeeper, a most distinct articulator, 
showed us the house. Dr. Johnson thought bet- 
ter of it to-day, than when he saw it before;* for 
he had lately attacked it violently, saying, " it 
would do excellently for a town-hall. The large 
room with the pillars (said he) would do for the 

* This relates to the time when this Diary was made. 



28 

ber was very richly furnished. The di- 
ning parlour was more splendid with 
gilt plate than any that I have seen. 
There were many pictures. The gran- 
deur was all below. The bedchambers 
were small, low, dark, and fitter for a 
prison than a house of splendour. The 
kitchen has an opening into the gallery, 

judges to sit in at the assizes; the circular room 
for a jury chamber; and the room above for 
prisoners." Still he thought the large room ill 
lighted, and of no use but for dancing in; 
and the bedchambers but indifferent rooms; and 
that the immense sum which it cost was injudi- 
ciously laid out. Dr. Taylor had put him in 
mind of his afifiearing pleased with the house, 
" But (said he) that was when lord Scarsdale 
was present. Politeness obliges us to appear 
pleased with a man's works when he is present. 
No man will be so ill bred as to question you. 
You may therefore pay compliments without 
saying what is not true. I should say to lord 
Scarsdale of his large room: i My lord, this is 
the most costly room that I ever saw>' which is 
true." 



29 

by which its heat and its fumes are dis- 
persed over the house. There seemed 
in the whole more cost than judgment. 

We went then to the silk mill at 
Derby, where I remarked a particular 
manner of propagating motion from a 
horizontal to a vertical wheel. 

We were desired to leave the men 
only two shillings. Mr. Thrale's bill 
at the inn for dinner was eighteen shil- 
lings and tenpence. 

Dr* Manningham, physician in London, who 
was visiting at lord Scarsdale's, accompanied 
us through many of the rooms, and soon after- 
wards my lord himself, to whom Dr. Johnson was 
known, appeared, and did the honours of the 
house. We talked of Mr. Langton. Johnson, 
with a warm vehemence of regard, exclaimed* 
" The earth does not bear a worthier man than 
Bennet Langton. We saw a good many fine pic- 
tures. We were shown a pretty large library. 
In his lordship's dressing-room lay Johnson's 
small dictionary: he showed it to me with some 
c2 



30 

At night I went to Mr. Langley's. 
Mrs. Wood's. Captain Astle, &c. 

20. We left Ashboum and went to 
Buxton, thence to Pool's Hole, which is 
narrow at first, but then rises into a high 
arch; but is so obstructed with crags, 
that it is difficult to walk in it. There 
are two ways to the end, which is, they 
say, six hundred and fifty yards from the 
mouth. They take passengers up the 
higher way, and bring them back the 
lower. The higher way was so difficult 
and dangerous, that, having tried it, I de- 
sisted. I found no level part. 

At night we came to Macclesfield, 
a very large town in Cheshire, little 

eagerness, saying, " Look'ye! Que regio in terris 
nostri non plena laboris." He observed, also, 
Goldsmith's " Animated Nature;" and said, 
" Here's our friend! The poor doctor would 
have been happy toliear of this." 



31 

known. It has a silk mill: it has a hand- 
some church, which, however, is but a 
chapel, for the town belongs to some 
parish of another name, * as Stourbridge 
lately did to Old Swinford. 

Macclesfield has a town-hall, and is, 
I suppose, a corporate town.f 

We came to Congleton, where there 
is likewise a silk mill. Then to Mid- 
dlewich, a mean old town, without any 
manufacture, but, I think, a corpora- 
tion. Thence we proceeded to Nampt- 
wich, an old town; from the inn, I saw 
scarcely any but black timber houses. 
I tasted the brine water, which contains 
more salt than the sea water .J By slow 

* The parish of Prestbury. 

t The corporation consists of twenty-four 
aldermen, and has such rights and privileges as 
commonly appertain to corporate towns. 

X Sea water, in its natural state, is but a weak 
brine; but its saltness varies in different seas, 



32 

evaporation, they make large crystals of 
salt; by quick boiling, small granula- 
tions. It seemed to have no other pre- 
paration. 

At evening we came to Comber- 
mere,* so called from a wide lake. 

and at different depths. In the Baltic, the pro- 
portion of common salt, and other saline ingre- 
dients, to the water in which they are held in so- 
lution, is as one to forty; in the British Channel, 
as one to thirty; and at a great depth near the 
Equator, as one to twenty-three: but the average 
may be estimated as one to twenty-eight. The 
brine in our salt works undergoes a process 
which is called graduation, by which its strength 
Is greatly increased before it is submitted to eva- 
poration. The colour of salt ought to be of a 
delicate blue-whiteness; any approach to yellow 
shows that the brine has been contaminated by 
the presence of iron. 

* At this time the seat of sir Lynch Salus- 
bury Cotton, now, of lord Combermere, his 
grandson, from which place he takes his title. It 
is situated in Cheshire, twenty-two miles from 
Shrewsbury. 



33 

22. We went up the Mere. I pull- 
ed a bulrush of about ten feet.* I saw 
no convenient boats upon the Mere. 

23. We visited lord Kilmorey's 
house. It is large and convenient, with 
many rooms, none of which are magni- 
ficently spacious.f The furniture was 
not splendid. The bed- curtains were 
guarded. Lord Kilmorey showed the 
place with too much exultation. He 
has no park, and little water. 

24. We went to a chapel,J built by 

* Great Cats'-tail, or Reed-mace. The Ty- 
+iha latifolia of Linnaeus. — See Classes and Or* 
ders of Linn <z us, vol. iii. p. 434. 

t This house, which is called Shavington 
hall, is in Shropshire, twenty-one miles from 
Shrewsbury, and, like Wrottesley hall in the 
adjoining county, is said to have as many win- 
dows, doors, and chimnies, as correspond in 
number to the days, weeks, and months, in a 
year. 

i This chapel is at Burleydam in Cheshire, 



34 

sir Lynch Cotton for his tenants. It is 
consecrated, and therefore, I suppose, 
endowed. It is neat and plain. The 
communion plate is handsome. It Ms 
iron pales and gates of great elegance, 
brought from Lleweney, " for Robert 
has laid all open. "* 

We saw Hawkestone, the seat of sir 
Rowland Hill,f and were conducted by 
miss Hill over a large tract of rocks and 
woods, a region abounding with stri- 
king scenes and terrific grandeur. We 
were always on the brink of a precipice, 

close to Combermere, built by sir Lynch Salis- 
bury Cotton, Mrs. Thrale's uncle. 

* This remark has reference to family con- 
versation. Robert was the eldest son of sir 
Lynch Salusbury Cotton, and lived at Lleweney 
at this time. 

t Now belonging to sir John Hill, Bart, fa- 
ther of lord Hill. It is twelve miles from 
Shrewsbury. 



35 

or at the foot of a lofty rock; but the 
steeps were seldom naked: in many 
places, oaks of uncommon magnitude 
shot up from the crannies of stone; and 
where there were no trees, there were 
underwoods and bushes. 

Round the rocks is a narrow path 
cut upon the stone, which is very fre- 
quently hewn into steps; but art has 
proceeded no further than to make the 
succession of wonders safely accessible. 
The whole circuit is somewhat labori- 
ous; it is terminated by a grotto cut in 
the rock to a great extent, with many 
windings, and supported by pillars, not 
hewn into regularity, but such as imi- 
tate the sports of nature, by asperities 
and protuberances. 

The place is without any dampness, 
and would afford an habitation not un- 



36 

comfortable. There were from space 
to space seats cut out of the rock. 
Though it wants water, it excels Dove- 3 
dale by the extent of its prospects, the 
awfulness of its shades, the horrors of 
its precipices, the verdure of its hollows, 
and the loftiness of its rocks: tfre ideas 
which it forces upon the mind are, the 
sublime, the dreadful, and the vast. 
Above is inaccessible altitude, below is 
horrible profundity. But it excels the 
garden of Ham only in extent. 

Ham has grandeur, tempered with 
softness; the walker congratulates his 
own arrival at the place, and is grieved 
to think he must ever leave it. As he 
looks up to the rocks, his thoughts are 
elevated; as he turns his eyes on the 
vallies, he is composed and soothed. 

He that mounts the precipices at 



37 

Hawkestone, wonders how he came 
thither, and doubts how he shall return. 
His walk is an adventure, and his depar- 
ture an escape. He has not the tran- 
quillity, but the horrors, of solitude; a 
kind of turbulent pleasure, between 
fright and admiration. 

Ham is the fit abode of pastoral vir- 
tue, and might properly diffuse its shades 
over Nymphs and Swains. Hawke- 
stone can have «° fitter inhabitants than 
giants of ^ghty bone and bold em- 
prise;* men °f lawless courage and 
heroic violence. Hawkestone should 
be described by Milton, and Ham by 
ParneLf 

* Paradise Lost, book xi, v. 642. 

t It ought to be remembered, that Johnson 
has already said that he was less pleased with 
Ham on this second visit than when he first saw 
it; and yet, in 1777, three years subsequent to 



38 

Miss Hill showed the whole succes- 
sion of wonders with great civility. The 
house was magnificent, compared with 
the rank of the owner. 

26. We left Combermere, where we 
have been treated with great civility. 

the time when this account was written, he still 
continued to have the same admiration for its 
beauties: and wh&t Boswell says upon this sub- 
ject is the more interesting, as he was wholly 
ignorant of the existen^ f this Diary, which 
was written in 1774. 

« Dr. Johnson obligingly pr^ ose( j to carry 
me to see Ham, a romantie scene, * ow belong 
to a family of the name of Porte, but tu. mer i v 
the seat of the Congreves. Johnson descried 
it distinctly and vividly, at which I could not bui 
express to him my wonder; because, though my 
eyes, as he observed, were better than his, I 
could not by any means equal him in represen- 
ting visible objects. I said, the difference be- 
tween us in this respect was as that between a 
man who has a bad instrument, but plays well 
on it, and a man who has a good instrument, on 
which he can play very imperfectly.' ' 



39 

The house is spacious, but not mag- 
nificent; built at different times, with 
different materials; part is of timber, part 
of stone or brick, plastered and painted 
to look like timber. It is the best house 
that I ever saw of that kind- 

The Mere, or lake, is large, with a 
small island, on which there is a sum- 
mer-house, shaded with great trees; 
some, were hollow, and have seats in 
their trunks.* 

* Combermere stands on the site of an old 
abbey of Benedictine monks, which was found- 
ed 1 133; and, about the year 1540, at the disso- 
lution of the monasteries, was granted, with a 
great part of the estates of the abbey, to George 
Cotton, Esq., an ancestor of the present lord 
Combermere. The library, which is forty feet 
by twenty-seven, is supposed to have been the 
refectory. The lake, or mere, is about three 
quarters of a mile long, but of no great width; 
it is skirted with woods, and from some situa- 
tions it has the appearance of a river. 



40 

In the afternoon we came to West- 
Chester; (my father went to the fair, 
when I had the small-pox). We walk- 
ed round the walls, which are com- 
plete, and contain one mile three quar- 
ters, and one hundred and one yards; 
within them are many gardens: they are 
very high, and two may walk very com- 
modiously side by side. On the inside 
is a rail. There are towers from space 
to space, not very frequent, and, I think 
not all complete. 

27. We staid at Chester and saw 
the cathedral, which is not of the first 
rank. The castle. In one of the rooms 
the assizes are held, and the refectory 
of the old abbey, of which part is a 
grammar school. The master seemed 
glad to see me. The cloister is very sol- 
emn; over it are chambers in which the 
singing men live. 



41 

In one part of the street was a sub- 
terranean arch, very strongly built; in 
another, what they called, I believe right- 
ly, a Roman hypocaust.* 

Chester has many curiosities. 

28. We entered Wales, dined at 
Mold,f and came to Lleweney.J 

29. We were at Lleweney. 

* See Afifi. 5. 

t Mold is a small market town, consisting 
principally of one long and wide street. 

| Lleweney hall, as I have already observed, 
was the residence of Robert Cotton, Esq. Mrs. 
Thrale's cousin german. Here Mr. and Mrs. 
Thrale and Dr. Johnson staid three weeks, 
making visits and short excursions in the neigh- 
bourhood and surrounding country. Pennant 
gives this description of its situation. " Lleweney 
lies on a flat, has most pleasing views of the 
mountains on each side of the vale, and the 
town and castle of Denbigh form most capital 
objects at the distance of two miles." It now be- 
longs to Mr. Hughes of Kinmel, who lately 
purchased it, with the estate, for/. 150,000. 
d 2 



42 

In the lawn at Lleweney is a spring 
of fine water, which rises above the sur- 
face into a stone basin, from which it 
runs to waste, in a continual stream 
through a pipe. 

There are very large trees. 
The hall at Lleweney is forty feet 
long, and twenty-eight broad. The gal- 
lery one hundred and twenty feet long, 
(all paved). The library forty-two feet 
long and twenty-eight broad. The 
dining-parlours thirty-six feet long, and 
twenty-six broad. 

It is partly sashed, and partly has 
casements. 

30. We went to Bachy Graig; where 
we found an old house, built 1567, in 
an uncommon and incommodious form. 
My mistress chattered about cleaning,* 

* Bach y Graig had been the residence of 
Mrs Thrale's ancestors for several generations; 



43 

but I prevailed on her to go to the top. 
The floors have been stolen: the windows 
are stopped. 

The house was less than I seemed 
to expect; the river Clwyfl is a brook 
with a bridge of one arch, about one 
third of a mile. 

The woods have many trees, generally 
young; but some, which seem to decay.* 

but her father did not live there, and it fell to 
decay, and on this visit Mrs. Thrale found it 
very dirty, particularly the stairs, and she re- 
quired some persuasion to go up, but was at last 
prevailed upon. My Mistress, was Johnson's 
familiar epithet for Mrs. Thrale. 

* From a letter to Mrs. Thrale, Sept. 13, 
1777, Johnson would seem to imply, that Wales 
had only these woods to attract the attention of 
a stranger. " Boswell wants to see Wales; but 
except the woods of Bach y Graig, what is there 
in Wales, that can fill the hunger of ignorance, 
or quench the thirst of curiosity?" Had he been 
writing to Boswell, instead of Mrs. Thrale, he 
would probably have been told, that in Scotland 



44 

They have been lopped. The house 
never had a garden. The addition of an- 
other story would make an useful house, 
but it cannot be great. Some build- 
ings which Clough, the founder, inten- 
ded for warehouses, would make store- 
chambers and servants 5 rooms.* The 
ground seems to be good. I wish it 
well. 

there was little else to make an impression on 
the traveller, but high hills, which, by constant- 
ly bounding the view, forced the mind to find 
entertainment for itself, in contemplating hope- 
less sterility, or useless vegetation. 

* Pennant gives a description of this house, 
in a tour he made into North Wales in 1780. 

" Not far from Dymerchion, lies half buried 
in woods the singular house of Bach y Graig. It 
consists of a mansion of three sides, inclosing a 
square court. The first consists of a vast hall 
and parlour: the rest of it rises into six wonder- 
ful stories, including the cupola^ and forms from 
the second floor the figure of a pyramid: the 
rooms are small and inconvenient. The bricks 



45 

31. We went to church at St. Asaph. 
The cathedral, though not large, has 
something of dignity and grandeur. 
The cross aisle is very short. It has 
scarcely any monuments. The quire 
has, I think, thirty-two stalls of antique 
workmanship. On the backs were Can- 
okicus, Prebend, Cancellarius, 
Thesaurarius, Precentor. Th.e 
constitution I do not know, but it has all 
the usual titles and dignities. The ser- 
vice was sung only in the psalms and 
hymns. 

The bishop was very civil.* We 
are admirable, and appear to have been made in 
Holland; and the model of the house was proba- 
bly brought from Flanders, where this kind of 
building is not unfrequent. It was built by sir 
Richard Clough, an eminent merchant, in the 
reign of queen Elizabeth. The initials of his 
name are in iron on the front, with the date 1 567, 
and on the gate-way 1569. 

* The bishop at this time was Dr. Shipley, 
Cither to the present dean of St. Asaph. Upon 



46 

went to his palace, which is but mean. 
They have a library, and design a room. 
There lived Lloyd* and Dodwell. 

August 1. We visited Denbigh, and 
the remains of its castle. 



another occasion, when he dined in company 
with Dr. Shipley, he said he was knowing and 
conversiblc. Their difference in politics would 
hardly admit of more praise from Johnson. 

* Lloyd was raised to the see of St. Asaph in 
1680. He was one of the seven bishops who 
were sent to the tower in 1688, for refusing to 
permit the publication of the royal declaration 
for liberty of conscience, and was a zealous pro- 
moter of the revolution. lie died bishop of 
Worcester, August 30, 1717, at 91 years of 

age. 

Dodwell was a man of extensive learning, 
and an intimate friend of Lloyd, and, like him, a 
great friend to the revolution. He also enter- 
tained religious opinions which were for the 
greater part of his life, inconvenient to him: but 
when he became an old man, his reason prevail- 
ed over those scruples, which his skill in con- 
troversy, in the vigour of his life, had given 
more importance to than they deserved. 



47 

The town consists of one main 
street, and some that cross it, which I 
have not seen. The chief street ascends 
with a quick rise for a great length: the 
houses are built, some with rough stone, 
some with brick, and a few of timber. 

The castle, with its whole enclo- 
sure, has been a prodigious pile; it is 
now so ruined, that the form of the in- 
habited part cannot easily be traced. 

There are, as in all old buildings, 
said to be extensive vaults, which the 
ruins of the upper works cover and con- 
ceal, but into which boys sometimes find 
a way. To clear all passages, and trace 
the whole of what remains, would re- 
quire much labour and expense. We 
saw a church, which was once the 
chapel of the castle, but is used by the 
town; it is dedicated to St. Hilary, and 
has an income of about — 



48 

At a small distance is the ruin of a 
church said to have been begun by the 
great earl of Leicester,* and left unfin- 
ished at his death. One side, and I think 
the east end, are yet standing. There 
was a stone in the wall, over the door 
way, which it was said would fall and 
crush the best scholar in the diocess. 
One Price would not pass under it. They 
have taken it down. 

We then saw the chapel of Llewen- 
ey, founded by one of the Salusburies: 
it is very complete: the monumental 
stones lie in the ground. A chimney 
has been added to it, but it is otherwise 
not much injured, and might be easily 
repaired.! 

* By Robert Dudley, earl of Leicester, in 
1579. He died Sept. 4, 1588. 

t The late sir Robert Salusbury Cotton| 
had no taste for antiquity of any kind; and this 



49 

We went to the parish church of 
Denbigh, which, being near a mile from 
the town, is only used when the parish 
officers are chosen. 

In the chapel, on Sundays, the ser- 
vice is read thrice, the second time only 
in English, the first and third ill Welsh. 

The bishop came to survey the cas- 
tle, and visited likewise St. Hilary's 
chapel, which is that which the town 
uses. The hay- barn, built with brick pil- 
lars from space to space, and covered 
with a roof. A more elegant and lofty 
hovel. 

The rivers here, are mere torrents 
which are suddenly swelled by the rain 
to great breadth and great violence, but 

chapel was not regarded by him as being in any 
respect better than a barn, or fit for any other 
purpose; and the present proprietor applies it to 
that use. 

E 



50 

have very little constant stream; such 
are the Clwyd and the Elwy.* There 
are yet no mountains. The ground is 
beautifully embellished with woods, and 
diversified with inequalities. 

In the parish church of Denbigh is a 
has relief of Lloyd the antiquary, who was 

* Here we see Johnson simply describing, 
the character of these streams; and this descrip- 
tion is interesting when compared with a pas- 
sage in his Journey to the Western Islands,, 
where the same facts become important from' 
the language in which they are given. 

" We passed many rivers and rivulets,<> 
which commonly ran with a clear shallow stream? 
over a hard pebbly bottom. These channels,, 
which seem so much wider than the water that 
they convey would naturally require, are formed 
by the violence of wintry floods, produced by the 
accumulation of innumerable streams that fall 
in rainy weather from the hills, and bursting 
away with resistless impetuosity, make them- 
selves a passage proportionate to their mass." 



51 

before Camden. He is kneeling at his 
prayers.* 

2. We rode to a summer-house of 
Mr. Cotton, which has a very extensive 
prospect: it is meanly built, and unskil- 
fully disposed.f 

We went to Dymerchion church, J 
where the old clerk acknowledged his 
mistress. It is the parish church of Bach 
y Graig. § A mean fabric: Mr. Salusbu- 
ry|| was buried in it. Bach y Graig 
has fourteen seats in it. 

* Humphry Llwyd was a native of Denbigh, 
and practised there as a physician, and also re- 
presented the town in parliament. He died 
1568, aged 41. 

t This summer-house is in the grounds be- 
longing to Lleweney, and their ride to it was to 
see the prospect; the situation commands a very 
beautiful view. 

\ Dymerchion is three miles from St. Asaph. 

§ Bach y Graig is the name of one of three 
townships of the parish of Dymerchion. 

|| Mr. Thrale's father. 



52 

As we rode by, I looked at the 
house again. We saw Llannerch, a 
house not mean, with a small park very 
well watered. There was an avenue cf 
oaks, which, in a foolish compliance 
with the present mode, has been cut 
down, A few are yet standing. The 
owner's name is Davies.* 

The way led through pleasant lanes, 
and overlooked a region beautifully di- 
versified with trees and grass. 

At Dymerchion church there is 
English service only once a month. 
This is about twenty miles from the 
English border. 

The old clerk had great appear- 
ance of joy at the sight of his mistress, 
and foolishly said, that he w r as now will- 

* Robert Davics, Esq. At his house there 
was an extensive library. 



53 

ing to die. He had only a crown given 
him by my mistress.* 

At Dymerchion church the texts on 
the walls are in Welsh. 

3. We went in the coach to Holy- 
well. 

Talk with mistressf about flatteryj* 

* In the MS. in Dr. Johnson's hand writing, 
lie has first entered in his diary, " The old 
clerk had great appearance of joy at seeing his 
mistress, and foolishly said that he was now wil- 
ling to die:" he afterwards wrote in a separate 
column, on the same leaf, under the head 
of notes and omissions, " He had a crown;" and 
then he appears to have read over his diary at 
a future time, and interlined the paragraph with 
the word — " on" " lygiven him by my mistress," 
which is written in ink of a different colour. 
This shows that he read his diary over after he 
wrote it, and that where his feelings were not 
accurately expressed, he amended them. 

t Mrs. Thralc. 

\ Johnson had no dislike to those commen- 
dations which are commonly imputed to flattery. 
e 2 



54 

Holywell is a market town, neither 
very small nor mean. The spring call- 
ed Winifred's Well is very clear, and 
so copious, that it yields one hundred 
tons of water in a minute. It is all at once 
a very great stream, which, within per- 
haps thirty yards of its eruption, turns 
a mill, and in a course of two miles, 

Upon one occasion he said to Mrs. Thrale, 
" What signifies protesting so against flattery! 
when a person speaks well of one, it must be ei- 
ther true or false, you know; if true, let us 
rejoice in his good opinion; if he lies, it is a 
proof at least that he loves more to please 
me, than to sit silent when he need say nothing. 
Though I like flattery, a little too much al- 
ways disgusts me: that fellow, Richardson, 
on the contrary, could not be content to glide 
o^ietly down the stream of reputation, with 
out longing to taste the froth from every stroke 
of the oar." 

" The difference between praise and flatte- 
ry is the same as between that hospitality that 
sets wine enough before the guest, and that 
which forces him to drink/' 



55 

eighteen mills more. In descent, it is 
very quick. It then falls into the sea. 
The well is covered by a lofty circular 
arch, supported by pillars; and over this 
arch is an old chapel, now a school. 
The chancel is separated by a wall. The 
bath is completely and indecently open. 
A woman bathed while we all looked on. 

In the church, which makes a good 
appearance, and is surrounded by gal- 
leries to receive a numerous congrega- 
tion, we were present while ^ child was 
christened in Welch. 

We went down by the stream to see 
a prospect, in which I had no part. 
We then saw a brass work, where the 
lapis calaminaris is gathered, broken, 
washed from the earth and the lead, 
though how the lead was separated I 
did not see; then calcined, afterwards 



56 



ground fine, and then mixed by fire 
with the copper. 

We saw several strong fires with 
melting pots, but the construction of 
the fire-places I did not learn. 

At a copper- work which receives its 
pigs of copper, I think, from Warring- 
ton, we saw a plate of copper put hot 
between steel rollers, and spread thin: 
I know not whether the upper roller was 
set to a certain distance, as I suppose* 
or acted only by its weight. 

At an iron- work I saw round bars 
formed by a knotched hammer and an- 
vil. There I saw a bar of about half 
an inch, or more, square cut with shears 
worked by w T ater, and then beaten hot 
into a thinner bar. The hammers all 
worked, as they were, by water, acting 
upon small bodies, moved very quick, 
as quick as by the hand. 



57 

I then saw wire drawn, and gave a 
shilling. I have enlarged my notions, 
though not being able to see the move- 
ments; and having not time to peep 
closely, I knew less than I might. I 
was less weary, and had better breath, 
as I walked farther. 

4. Ruthin castle is still a very noble 
ruin; all the walls still remain, so that 
a complete platform, and elevations, not 
very imperfect, may be taken. It en- 
closes a square of about thirty yards. 
The middle space was always open. 

The wall is, I believe, about thirty 
feet Jhigh, very thick, flanked with six 
round towers, each about eighteen feet r 
or less in diameter. Only one tower 
had a chimney, so that there was com- 
modity of living. It was only a place 
of strength. The garrison had, perhaps, 
tents in the area. 



58 

Stapylton's house is pretty:* there 
are pleasing shades about it, with a con- 
stant spring that supplies a cold bath* 
We then went to see a cascade, 

I trudged unwillingly, and was not 
sorry to find it dry. The ivater was, 
however, turned on, and produced a ve- 
ry striking cataract. They are paid aa 
hundred pounds a year for permission to 
divert the stream to the mines. The 
river, for such it may be termed, rises 
from a single spring, which, like that of 
Winifred's, is covered with a building. 

We called then at another house 
belonging to Me. Lloyd, which made a 

* The name of this house is Bodryddan; for- 
merly the residence of the Stapyltons, the pa- 
rents of five co-heiresses, of whom Mrs. Cotton,, 
afterwards lady Salusbury Cotton, was one; but 
in the year 1774, it was the residence of Mr. 
Shipley, dean of St. Asaph, who still lives there:. 



59 

handsome appearance. This country 
seems full of very splendid houses. 

Mrs. Thrale lost her purse. She ex- 
pressed so mu^h uneasiness, that I con- 
cluded the sum to be very great; but 
when I heard of only seven guineas, I 
was glad to find that she had so much 
sensibility of money. 

I could not drink this day either cofr 
fee or tea after dinner. I know not 
when I missed before* 

5. Last night my sleep was remark - 
bly quiet. I know not whether by fa- 
tigue in walking, or by forbearance of 
tea* 

I gave the ipecacuanha. Vin. emet. 
had failed; so had tartar emet. 

I dined at Mr. Mvddleton's, of 
Gwaynynog. The house was a gentle- 
man's house, below the second rate, per- 



60 

haps below the third, built of stone 
roughly cut. The rooms were low, and 
the passage above stairs gloomy, but the 
furniture was good. The table was well 
supplied, except that the fruit was bad. 
It was truly the dinner of a country gen- 
tleman.* Two tables were filled with 
company, not inelegant. 

After dinner, the talk was of pre- 
serving the Welsh language. I offered 
them a scheme. Poor Evan Evans was 
mentioned, as incorrigibly addicted to 

* Johnson affected to be a man of very nice 
discernment in the art of cookery. Boswell ob- 
serves, upon one occasion he alarmed a lady, at 
vr hose house he was to sup, by this declaration 
of his skill: " I, madam, who live at a variety of 
good tables, am a much better judge of cook- 
ery, than any person who has a very tolerable 
cook, but lives much at home; for his palate is 
gradually adapted to the taste of his cook; 



61 

strong drink. Washington was com- 
mended. Myddleton is the only man, 
who, in Wales, has talked to me of lite- 
rature. I wish he were truly zealous. 
I recommended the republication of 
David ap Rhees's Welsh Grammar. 

Two sheets of Hebrides came to me 
for correction to-dav, F. G.* 

6. 2*9\ i$. I corrected the two sheets. 
My sleep last night was disturbed. 

Washing at Chester and here, 5s. Id. 

whereas, madam, in trying by a wider range, I 
can more exquisitely judge." When invited 
to dine, even with an intimate friend, he was not 
pleased if something better than a plain dinner 
was not prepared for him. — Aftfi, 6. 

* F. G. are the printer's signatures, by 
which it appears that at this time five sheets 
had already been printed. The MS. was sent 
to press June 1 lth.— Boswell's Life of Dr. 
Johnson, vol. ii. fi. 288. 



62 

I did not read. 

I saw to-day more of the out-houses 
at Llevveney. It is, in the whole, a very 
spacious house. 

7. I was at church at Bodfari. 
There was a service used for a sick wo- 
man, not canonically, but such as I have 
heard, I think formerly at Lichfield, ta- 
ken out of the visitation. KccB: fA&rym. 

The church is mean, but has a 
square tower for the bells, rather too state- 
ly for a church. 

OBSERVATIONS. 

Dixit injustus, Ps. 36, has no rela- 
tion to the English, 

Preserve us, Lord, has the name of 
Robert Wisedome, 1618. — Barker** 
Bible. 



63 

Battologiam ab iteratione, recte dis- 
tinguit Erasmus. — Mod. Orandi Deum, 
p. 56 — 144. 

Southwell's Thoughts of his own 
Death. 

Baudius on Erasmus.* 

8. The bishop and much company 
dined at Llewcney.f Talk of Greek — 

* This work, which Johnson was now read- 
ing, was, most probably, a little book, entitled 
Baudi Efdstol<£) as, in his life of Milton, he has 
made a quotation from it. Speaking of Milton's 
religious opinions, when he is supposed to have 
vacillated between Calvinism and Arminianism, 
he observes, " What Baudius says of Erasmus 
seems applicable to him, magis habuit quod fu- 
gcrtt qua?n quod sequcreter." 

t During Johnson's stay at this place, Mrs, 
Thrale gives this trait of his character. When 
we went into Wales together, and spent some 
time at Mr. Cotton's at Lleweney, one day at din- 
ner, I meant to please Mr. Johnson particular- 
ly, with a dish of very young peas. < Are not 
they charming?' said I to him, while he was 



64 

and the army. The duke of Marlbo- 
rough's officers useless. Read Phocyli- 
dis,* distinguished the paragraphs. I 
looked in Leland: an unpleasant book 
of mere hints, f 

Lichfield school, ten pounds; and 
five pounds from the hospital. 

10. At Lloyd's, of Maesmynnan; a 
good house, and a very large walled 
garden. I read Windus's Account of 
his Journey to Mequinez, and of Stew- 
art's Embassy.! I had read in the morn- 
eating them. * Perhaps they would be so— to a 
pig.' This is given only as an instance of the 
peculiarity of his manner, and which had in it 
no intention to offend. 

* The title of the poem is nctvfta nvS-eltyJv. 

t Leland's Itinerary, published by Thomas 
Hearne, in nine very thin octavo volumes, 1710. 

| This book is entitled, " A Journey to Me- 
quinez, the residence of the present emperor of 
Fez and Morocco, on the occasion of commo- 



65 

ing Wasse's Greek Trochaics to Bent- 
ley. They appear inelegant, and made 
with difficulty. The Latin elegy con- 
tains only common-place, hastily expres- 
sed, so far as I have read, for it is long. 
They seem to be the verses of a scholar, 
who has no practice of writing. The 
Greek I did not always fully understand. 
I am in doubt about sixth and last para- 
graphs, perhaps they are not printed right, 
for ivroMv perhaps iv<flo%Qv. q? 

The following days I read here and 
there. The Bibliotheca Literaria was so 
little supplied with papers that could in- 
terest curiosity, that it could not hope 
for long continuance.* Wasse, the 

dore Stewart's embassy thither, for the redemp- 
tion of the British captives, in the year 1721." 
8vo. 

* The Bibliotheca Literaria was publisked 
in London, 1722-4, in 4to numbers, but only ex- 
tended to ten numbers. 
F 2 



66 

chief contributor, was an unpolished 
scholar, who, with much literature, had 
no art or elegance of diction, at least in 
English, 

14. At Bodfari I heard the second 
lesson read, and the sermon preached in 
Welsh, The text was pronounced both 
in Welsh and English. The sound of the 
Welsh, in a continued discourse, is not 
unpleasant. 

The letter of Chrysostom, against 
transubstantiation. Erasmus to the nuns, 
full of mystic notions and allegories. 

15. K*9*. Imbecillitas genuum non 
sine aliquantulo doloris inter ambulan- 
dum, quern a prandio magis sensi.f 

* By this expression it would seem, that on 
this day Johnson ate sparingly. 

t " A weakness of the knees, not without 
ome pain in walking, which I feel increased af- 
ter I haye dined." 



67 

18. We left Lleweney, and went for- 
wards on our journey. 

We came to Abergeley, a mean 
town, in which little but Welsh is spo^ 

Throughout this Diary, when Johnson is 
obliged to turn his thoughts to the state of his 
health, he always puts his private memoranda in 
the learned languages; as if to throw a slight 
veil over those ills which he would willingly 
have hid from himself. 

The day after this memorandum was made, 
he wrote a letter to his medical friend, Mr. Ro- 
bert Levet. 

" To Mr. Robert Levet. 

" Lleweney, in Denbighshire, 
August 16, 1774. 
" DEAR SIR, 

" Mr. Thrale's affairs have kept him here 
a great while, nor do I know exactly when we 
shall come hence. I have sent you a bill upon 
Mr. Strahan. 

" I have made nothing of the ipecacuanha, but 
have taken abundance of pills, and hope that 
they have done me good. 

" Wales, so far as I have yet seen of it, is a 
very beautiful and rich country, all enclosed and 



63 

ken, and divine service is seldom per* 
formed in English. 

Our way then lay to the sea-side, at 
the foot of a mountain, called Penmaen 
Rhos. Here the way was so steep, that 
we walked on the lower edge of the hill, 
to meet the coach, that went upon a road 
higher on the hill. Our walk was not 
long, nor unpleasant: the longer I walk, 
the less I feel its inconvenience. As I 
grow warm, my breath mends, and I 
think my limbs grow pliable. 

We then came to Conway ferry, 
and passed in small boats, with some 
passengers from the stage coach, among 

planted. Denbigh is not a mean town. Make 
my compliments to all my friends, and tell 
Frank I hope he remembers my advice. When 
his money is out, let him have more. I am, 
sir, 

" Your humble servant, 

"Sam. Johnson.*' 



69 

whom were an Irish gentlewoman, with 
two maids and three little children, of 
which the youngest was only a few 
months old. The tide did not serve the 
large ferry-boat, and therefore our coach 
could not very soon follow us. We 
were therefore to stay at the inn. It is 
now the day of the race at Conway, and 
the town was so full of company, that 
no money could purchase lodgings. 
We were not very readily supplied with 
cold dinner. We would have staid at 
Conway if we could have found enter- 
tainment, for we were afraid of passing 
Penmaen Mawr, over which lay our way 
to Bangor, but by bright daylight, and 
the delay of our coach, made our depar- 
ture necessarily late. There was, how- 
ever, no stay on any other terms, than 
of sitting up all night. 



70 

The poor Irish lady was still more 
distressed. Her children wanted rest. 
She would have been contented with one 
bed, but, for a time, none could be had. 
Mrs. Thrale gave her what help she 
could. At last two gentlemen were per- 
suaded to yield up their room, with two 
beds, for which she gave half a guinea. 

Our coach was at last brought, and 
we set out with some anxiety, but we 
came to Penmaen Mawr by daylight; 
and found a way, lately made, very easy 
and very safe.* It was cut smooth, and en- 
closed between parallel walls; the outer of 

* Penmaen Mawr, is a huge rock, rising 
nearly 1550 feet perpendicular above the sea. 
Along a shelf of this precipice, is formed an ex- 
cellent road, well guarded, toward the sea, by 
a strong wall, supported in many parts by arches 
turned underneath it. Before this wall was 
built, travellers sometimes fell down the preci- 
pice. 



71 

which, secures the passenger from the 
precipice, which is deep and dreadful. 
This wall is here and there broken, by- 
mischievous wantonness. The inner 
wall preserves the road from the loose 
stones, which the shattered steep above 
it would pour down. That side of the 
mountain seems to have a surface of 
loose stones, which every accident may 
crumble. The old road was higher, 
and must have been very formidable. 
The sea beats at the bottom of the way. 
At evening the moon shone eminent- 
ly bright; and our thoughts of danger be- 
ing now past, the rest of our journey 
was very pleasant. At an hour some 
what late, we came to Bangor, where 
we found a very mean inn, and had some 
difficulty to obtain lodging, I lay in a 
room, where the other bed had two men. 



72 

19. We obtained boats to convey us 
to Anglesey, and saw lord Bulkeley's 
house, and Beaumaris castle. 

I was accosted by Mr. Lloyd, the 
schoolmaster of Beaumaris, who had seen 
me at University college; and he, with 
Mr. Roberts, the register of Bangor, 
whose boat we borrowed, accompanied 
tis. Lord Berkeley's house is very mean, 
but his garden is spacious, and shady 
with large trees and smaller interspersed. 
The walks are straight, and cross each 
other, with no variety of plan; but they 
have a pleasing coolness, and solemn 
gloom, and extend to a great length,* 

* Baron Hill, is the name of lord Bulkeley's 
house which is situated just above the town of 
Beaumaris, at the distance of •£ of a mile, com- 
manding so fine a view of the sea, and the coast 
of Caernarvon, that it has been sometimes com- 
pared to Mount Edgecombe, in Devonshire, 



The castle is a mighty pile; the 
outward wall has fifteen round towers, 
besides square towers at the angles. 
There is then a void space between the 
wall and the castle, which has an area 
enclosed with a wall, which again has 
towers, larger than those of the outer 
wall. The towers of the inner castle are, 
I think, eight. There is likewise a cha- 
pel entire, built upon an arch as I sup- 
pose, and beautifully arched with a stone 
roof, which is yet unbroken. The en- 
trance into the chapel is about eight or 
nine feet high, and was, I suppose, high- 
er, when there was no rubbish in the 
area. 

This castle corresponds with all the 
representations of romancing narratives. 

Lord Lyttelton, speaking of the house and gar- 
dens, says, — " The house is a bad one, but the 
gardens are made in a very fine taste." 

G 



74 

Here is not wanting the private passage, 
the dark cavity, the deep dungeon, or 
the lofty tower. We did not discover 
the well. This is the most complete 
view that I have yet had of an old cas- 
tle. It had a moat. 

The towers. 

We went to Bangor. 

20. We went by water from Bangor 
to Caernarvon, where we met Paoli* and 
sir Thomas Wynne. f Meeting by chance 
with one Troughton^ an intelligent and 

* General Pasquale dePaoli, the distinguish- 
ed patriot of Corsica, who, after all his exertions 
failed to render his native country any service, 
retired to England in 1769, and died in London 
Feb. 5, 1 807, in the eighty-second year of his age. 
•~-See Johnson's fir st interview with him, Ajifi, 8. 

t Sir Thomas Wynne, created lord New- 
borough, July U, 1776. Died October 12, 1807. 
Father to the present lord Newborough. 

\ This gentlemen was a lieutenant in the 
navy* 



loquacious wanderer, Mr. Thrale invited 
him to dinner. He attended us to the 
castle, an edifice of stupendous magni- 
tude and strength; it has in it all that we 
observed at Beaumaris, and much grea- 
ter dimensions: many of the smaller 
rooms floored with stone are entire; of 
the larger rooms, the beams and planks 
are all left: this is the state of all build- 
ings left to time. We mounted the 
Eagie tower by one hundred and six* 
ty-nine steps, each often inches.* We 

* Johnson, as appears in the course of this 
Diary, often amused himself with minute com- 
putation, and this was much the habit of his 
mind. In a letter to Mrs. Thrale, Oct. 6, he 
says, " Mr. Langton bought at Nottingham fair 
fifteen ton of cheese; which, at an ounce a-piece, 
will suffice after dinner for four hundred and 
eighty thousand men." At another time he 
says," Nothing amuses more harmlessly than 
computation, and nothing is oftener applicable 
to real business or speculative inquiries." 



T6 

did not find the well; nor did I trade 
the moat; but moats there were, I be- 
lieve, to all castles on the plain, which 
not only hindered access, but prevented 
mines. We saw but a very small part 
of this mighty ruin, and in all these old 
buildings, the subterraneous works are 
concealed by the rubbish. 

To survey this place would take 
much time: I did not think there had 
been such buildings; it surpassed my 
ideas. 

21. We were at church; the service 
in the town is always English; at the 
parish church at a small distance, always 
Welsh. The town has by degrees, I 
suppose, been brought nearer to the sea 
side. 

We received an invitation to Dr. 
Worthington. We then went to dinner 



44 

at sir Thomas Wynne's, — the dinner 
mean, sir Thomas civil, his lady nothing. 
Paoli civil. 

We supped with colonel Wynne's 
lady, who lives in one of the towers of 
the castle. 

I have not been very well. 

22. We went to visit Bodville, the 
place where Mrs. Thrale was born, and 
the churches called Tydweilliog and 
Llangwinodyl, which she holds by im- 
propriation. 

We had an invitation to the house 
of Mr. Griffiths of Bryn o dol, where 
we found a small neat new built house, 
with square rooms: the walls are of un- 
hewn stone, and therefore thick; for the 
stones not fitting with exactness, are not 
strong without great thickness. He had 
planted a great deal of young wood in 
walks. Fruit trees do not thrive; but ha- 

G 2 



78 

ving grown a few years, reach some bar- 
ren stratum and wither. 

We found Mr. Griffiths not at home; 
but the provisions were good. Mr. 
Griffiths came home the next day. He 
married a lady who has a house and es- 
tate at , over against Anglesea, 

and near Caernarvon, where she is more 
delighted, as it seems, to reside, than at 
Bryn o dol. 

I read Lloyd's account of Mona, 
which he proves to be Anglesea. 

In our way to Bryn o dol, we saw 
at Llanerk a church built crosswise, 
very spacious and magnificent for this 
country. We could not see the parson, 
and could get no intelligence about it. 
:■ 24. We went to see Bodville. Mrs. 
Thrale remembered the rooms, and wan- 
dered over them with recollection of her 
childhood. This species of pleasure is 



79 

always melancholy. The walk was cut 
down, and the pond was dry. Nothing 
was better.* 

We surveyed the churches, which 
are mean, and neglected to a degree 
scarcely imaginable. They have no pave- 
ment, and the earth is full of holes. The 
seats are rude benches; the altars have 
no rails. One of them has a breach in 
the roof. On the desk, I think, of each, 
lay a folio Welsh bible of the black let- 
ter, which the curate cannoteasily read.f 

* Afifi. 8. 

t In this tour, Mrs. Thrale records an an- 
ecdote of the ignorance of a clergyman in Wales, 
which upon this occasion, was very probably in 
Johnson's mind. 

" A Welsh parson of mean abilities, though 
a good heart, struck with reverence at the sight 
of Dr. Johnson, whom he had heard of as the 
greatest man living, could not find any words 
to answer his inquiries concerning a motto round 
somebody's arms which adorned a tomb-stone in 



80 

Mr. Thrale purposes to beautify the 
churches; and if he prospers, will pro- 
bably restore the tithes. The two pa- 
rishes are, Llangwinodyl* and Tydweil- 
liog.* The Methodists are here very 

Ruabon* churchyard. If I remember right, the 
words were, 

Heb Dw, Hcb Dym, 
Dw o' diggon. 

And though of no very difficult construction, the 
gentleman seemed wholly confounded, and una- 
ble to explain them; till Mr. Johnson, having 
picked out the meaning by little and little, said 
to the man, ' Heb is a preposition, I believe, sir, 
is it not?' My countryman recovering some 
spirits upon the sudden question, cried out, 
" So I humbly presume, sir," very comically. 

* These two parishes are perpetual cura- 
cies, endowed with the small tithes, which in 
1809 amounted to six pounds sixteen shillings 
and sixpence in each parish; but these sums are 
increased by queen Ann's bounty; and in 1 809 the 
whole income for Llangwinodyl, including sur- 

* Ruabon is also written Rhia Abon. It is a very con- 
siderable vicarage, within four miles of Wrexham, 



81 

prevalent. A better church will impress 
the people with more reverence of pub- 
lic worship. 

Mrs. Thrale visited a house where 
she had been used to drink milk, which 
was left, with an estate of two hundred 
pounds a year, by one Lloyd,* to a mar- 
ried woman who lived with him. 

We went to Pwllheli, a mean old 
town, at the extremity of the country. 
Here we bought something, to remem- 
ber the place. 

plice fees, amounted to forty-six pounds two shiU 
lings and twopence, and for Tydweilliog, forty- 
three pounds nineteen shillings and tenpence; 
so that it does not appear that Mr. Thrale car- 
ried into effect his good intention. 

* Mr. Lloyd was a very good-natured man; 
and when Mrs. Thrale w r as a little child, he was 
used to treat her with sweetmeats and milk; but 
what was now remarkable was, that she should 
recollect the house, which she had not seen 
nee she was five years old 



82 

25. We returned to Caernarvon, 
where we ate with Mrs. Wynne. 

26. We visited, with Mrs. Wynne, 
Llyn Badarn and Llyn Beris, two lakes, 
joined by a narrow strait. They are 
formed by the waters which fall from 
Snowdon, and the opposite mountains. 
On the side of Snowdon are the remains 
of a large fort, to which we climbed with 
great labour. I was breathless and ha- 
rassed. The lakes have no great breadth, 
so that the boat is always near one bank 
or the other. 

Note. Queeny's goats, one hundred 
and forty-nine, I think.* 

* Mr. Thrale was near-sighted, and could not 
see the goats browsing on Snowdon, and he pro- 
mised his daughter, who was a child often years 
old, a penny for every goat she would show him; 
and Dr. Johnson kept the account; so that it ap- 
pears her father was in debt to her one hundred 



83 

27. We returned to Bangor, where 
Mr. Thrale was lodged at Mr. Robert's, 
the register. 

28. We went to worship at the ca- 
thedral. The quire is mean, the service 
was not well read. 

29. We came to Mr. Myddelton's, 
of Gwaynynog, to the first place, as my 
mistress* observed, where we have 
been welcome. 

Note. On the day when we visited 

Bodville, we turned to the house of Mr. 

Griffiths, of Kefnam-wycllh, a gentleman 

of large fortune, remarkable for having 

made great and sudden improvements 

in his seat and estate. He has enclosed 

». 

and forty-nine pence. Queeny was the epithet, 
which had its origin in the nursery, by which 
miss Thrale was always distinguished by John- 
son. 

* Mrs. Thrale. 



84 

a large garden with a brick wall. He is 
considered as a man of great accomplish- 
ments. He was educated in literature 
at the university, and served some time 
in the army, then quitted his commis- 
sion, and retired to his lands. He is 
accounted a good man, and endeavours 
to bring the people to church. 

In our way from Bangor to Conway, 
we passed again the new road upon the 
edge of Penmaen Mawr, which would 
be verv tremendous, but that the wall 
shuts out the idea of danger. In the 
wall are several breaches, made, as Mr. 
Thrale very reasonably conjectures, by 
fragments of rocks which roll down the 
mountain, broken perhaps by frost, or 
worn through by rain. 

We then viewed Conway. 

To spare the horrors at Penmaen 
Rh&s, between Conway and St. Asaph, 



85 

we sent the coach over the road cross the 
mountain with Mrs. Thrale, who had 
been tired with a walk sometime before; 
and I, with Mr. Thrale and miss, walk- 
ed along the edge, where the path is 
very narrow, and much encumbered by- 
little loose stones, which had fallen down, 
as we thought, upon the way since we 
passed it before. 

At Conway we took a short survey 
of the castle, which afforded us nothing 
new. It is larger than that of Beauma- 
ris, and less than that of Caernarvon. It 
is built upon a rock so high and steep, 
that it is even now very difficult of ac- 
cess. We found a round pit, which 
was called the well; it is now almost fil- 
led, and therefore dry. We found the 
well in no other castle. There are some 
remains of leaden pipes at Caernarvon, 
which, I suppose, only conveyed water 



86 

from one part of the building to another. 
Had the garrison had no other supply, 
the Welsh, who must know where the 
pipes were laid, could easily have cut 
them. 

29. We came to the house of Mr. 
Myddelton, (on Monday,) where we 
staid to September 6, and were very 
kindly entertained. How we spent our 
time, I am not very able to tell.* 



* However this may have been, he was both 
happy and amused, during his stay at Gwayny- 
nog, and Mr. Myddelton was flattered by the 
honour of his visit. To perpetuate the recol- 
lection of it, he erected an urn on the banks of| 
a rivulet, in the park, where Johnson delighted 
to stand and recite verses; on which is this in- 
scription: 

This spot was often dignified by the presence of 
SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL. i). 
whose Moral Writings, exactly conformable to the 
Precepts of Christianity, 
gave ardour to Virtue, and confidence to Truth. 



37 

We saw the wood, which is diversi- 
fied and romantic. 

September 4, Sunday, We dined 
with Mr. Myddelton, the clergyman, at 
Denbigh, where I saw the harvest-men 
very decently dressed, after the after- 
noon service, standing to be hired. On 
other days, they stand at about four in the 
morning. They are hired from day to 
day. 

5. We lay at Wrexham; a busy, ex- 
tensive, and well built town. It has a 
very large and magnificent church. It 
has a famous fair. 

7. We came to Chirk castle. 

In 1777, it would appear from a letter by 
Johnson to Mrs. Thrale, that he was informed 
that Mr. Myddelton meditated this honour, which 
seemed to be but little to his taste. " Mr. Myd- 
delton's erection of an urn, looks like an inten- 
tion to bury me alive; I would as willingly see 
my friend, however benevolent and hospitable, 



88 

8. Thursday. We came to thev 
house of Dr. Worthington,* at Llanrh- 
aiadr. Our entertainment was poor, 
though the house was not bad. The 
situation is very pleasant, by the side of 
a small river, of which the bank rises 
high on the other side, shaded by gradu- 
al rows of trees. The gloom, the stream, 
and the silence, generate thoughtfulness. 

The town is old, and very mean, but 
has, I think, a market. In this town, the 
Welsh translation of the Old Testament 
was made. The Welsh singing psalms 
were written by archdeacon Price, They 

quietly inurned. Let him think, for the present, 
of some more acceptable memorial." 

* Dr. William Worthington, a man of dis- 
tinguished learning, and an author of many 
works on religious subjects. He enjoyed con- 
siderable ptre ferment in the church, and lived at 
Llanrhaiadr; of which parish he was the rector. 
He died October 6, 1778, aged 75. 



89 

are not considered as elegant, but as 
very literal, and accurate. 

We came to Llanrhaiadr,* through 
Oswestry; a town not very little, nor 
very mean. The church, which I saw 
only at a distance, seems to be an edi- 
fice much too good for the present state 
of the place, 

9. We visited the waterfall, which is 
very high, and in rainy weather very co- 
pious. There is a reservoir made to 
supply it. In its fall, it has perforated 
a rock. There is a room built for en- 
tertainment. There was some difficul- 
ty in climbing to a near view. Lord 
Lytteltonf came near it, and turned 
back. 

* Llanrhaiadr, being translated into English, 
is The Village of the Fountain, and takes its 
name from a spring, about a quarter of a mile 
from the church. 

f Thomas, the second lord Lyttelton, 
h 2 



[)0 

When we came back, we took some 
cold meat, and notwithstanding the doc- 
tor's importunities, went that day to 
Shrewsbury. 

10. IsentforGwynn,* and he show- 
ed us the town. The walls are broken, 
and narrower than those of Chester. The 
town is large, and has many gentlemen's 
houses, but the streets are narrow. I saw 
Taylor's library. We walked in the 
quarry; a very pleasant walk by the ri- 
ver. Our inn was not bad. 

11. Sunday. We were at St. Chads, 
a very large and luminous church. We 
were on the castle hill. 

* Mr. Gwynn was an architect of consider- 
able celebrity. He was a native of Shrewsbury, 
and was at this time completing a bridge across 
the Severn, called the English bridge: besides 
this bridge, he built one at Acham, over the Se- 



91 

12. We called on Dr. Adams,* and 
travelled towards Worcester, through 
Wenlock; a very mean place, though a 
borough. At noon we came to Bridge- 
north, and walked about the town, of 
which, one part stands on a high rock; 
and part very low, by the river. There 
is an old tower, which being crooked, 
leans so much, that it is frightful to pass 
by it. 

In the afternoon we came through 
Kinvcr, a town in Staffordshire; neat and 
closely built. I believe it has only one 
street 

The road was so steep and miry, 
that we were forced to stop at Hartlebu- 

vern, near to Shrewsbury; and the bridges at 
Worcester, Oxford, and Henley, are all built by 
him. 

* The master of Pembroke college, Oxford, 
who w as also rector of St. Chads, in Shrews- 
bury. 



92 

ry, where we had a very neat inn, though 
it made a very poor appearance. 

13. We came to lord Sandy's at \ 
Ombersley, where we were treated with 
great civility.* 

The house is large. The hall is a 
very noble room. 

15. We went to Worcester, a very 
splendid city. The cathedral is very 
noble, with many remarkable monu- 
ments. The library is in the chapter 
house. On the table lay the Nurern- 
burg Chronicle, I think, of the first edi- 
tion, f ' We went to the china w r are- 
house. $ 

* It was here that Johnson had as much wall- 
fruit as he wished, and, as he told Mrs. Thrale, 
for the only time in his life. 

t The first edition was printed July 12, 
1493. The author, or rather compiler of this 
chronicle, was one Hartman Schedel, of Nu- 
remberg, a physician. 

% In 1777, September 19, Johnson took Bos- 
well to see the china manufactory, at Derby, and 



93 

The cathedral has a cloister. The 
long aisle is in my opinion, neither so 
wide nor so high as that of Lichfield. 

16. We went to Hagley, w r here we 
were disappointed of the respect and 
kindness thai we expected.* 

17. We saw the house and park, 
which equalled my expectation. The 
house is one square mass. The offices 
are below. The rooms of elegance on 
the first floor, with two stories of bed- 

these are his remarks on that occasion. " The 
Derby china is very pretty, but I think the gild- 
ing is all superficial; and the finer pieces are 
so dear, that perhaps silver vessels, of the same 
capacity, may be sometimes bought at the same 
price; and I am not yet so infested with the con- 
tagion of china-fancy, as to like any thing at that 
rate, which can so easily be broken." 

* This visit was not to lord Lyttelton, but to 
his uncle, the father of the present lord Lyttel- 
ton, who lived at a house called Little Hagley. 



94 

chambers, very well disposed above it. 
The bedchambers have low windows, 
which abates the dignity of the house. 

The park has an artificial ruin, and 
wants water; there is, however, one tem- 
porary cascade. From the farthest hill 
there is a very \vide prospect. 

18. I went to church. The church 
is, externally, very mean, and is there 
fore diligently hidden by a plantation. 
There are in it several modern monu- 
ments of the Lytteltons. 

There dined with us, lord Dudley, 
and sir Edward Lyttelton, of Stafford- 
shire, and his lady. They were all 
persons of agreeable conversation. 

I found time to reflect on my birth- 
day, and offered a prayer, which I hope 
was heard.* 

* Dr. Johnson particularly disliked to be 
complimented on his birth-day, or to have the 



95 

19. We made haste away from a 
place, where all were offended. In the 
way we visited the Leasowes. It was 
rain, yet we visited all the waterfalls. 

day mentioned, and Boswell frequently annoyed 
him on that head. In a letter which he wrote 
to Mrs. Thrale, while he was staying at the 
Macleods, in the isle of Skie, he says, " Bos- 
well, with some of his troublesome kindness, 
has informed this family, and reminded me, that 
the 18th of September is my birth-day. The 
return of my birth-day, if I remember it, fills 
me with thoughts, which it seems to be the ge- 
neral care of humanity to escape. I can now 
look back upon three score and four years, in 
which little has been done, and little has been 
enjoyed; a life diversified by misery, spent part 
in the sluggishness of penury, and part under 
the violence of pain, in gloomy discontent or 
importunate distress. But perhaps I am better 
than I should have been, if I had been less af- 
flicted. With this I will try to be content. 

" In proportion as there is less pleasure in 
retrospective considerations, the mind is more 
disposed to wander forward into futurity; but at 
sixty-four, what promises, however liberal, of 



96 

There are, in one place, fourteen falls in 
a short line. It is the next place to Ham 
gardens. Poor Shenstone never tasted 
his pension. It is not very well proved 
that any pension was obtained for him. 
I am afraid that he died of misery. 

We came to Birmingham, and I sent 
for Wheeler, whom I found well. 

20. We breakfasted with Wheeler,* 

imaginary good, can futurity venture to make? 
yet something will be always promised, and 
some promises will always be credited. I am 
hoping, and I am praying, that I may live better 
in the time to come, whether long or short, than 
I have yet lived, and in the solace of that hope, 
endeavour to repose. Dear Queeny's day is 
next: I hope she at sixty-four will have le ss to 
regret. 

" I will now complain no more, but teJ 1 my 
mistress of my travels." 

* Dr. Benjamin Wheeler: he was a native 
of Oxford, and originally on the foundation of 
Trinity college; afterwards he became a fellow 
of Magdalene college, canon of Christ church, 



97 

and visited the manufacture of Papier 
Mache. The paper which they use is 
smooth whited brown; the varnish is 
polished with rotten stone. Wheeler 
gave me a teaboard. We then went to 
Boulton's, who, with great civility, led 
us through his shops. I could not dis - 
tinctly see his enginery. 

Twelve dozen of buttons for three 
shillings. Spoons struck at once. 

21. Wheeler came to us again. 

We came easily to Woodstock. 

2. We saw Blenheim and Wood- 
stock park. The park contains two 

and Regius professor of divinity. He took his 
degree of A M. November 14, 1758, and D. D 
July 6, 1770, and was a man of extensive learn- 
ing. Dr. Johnson, in his letters to Mrs. Thrale 
styles him, " My learned friend, the man with 
whom I most delighted to converse. 3 ' 



98 

thousand five hundred acres; about four 
square miles. It has red deer.* 

Mr. Bryant showed me the library 
with great civility. Durandi Rationale, 
1459. f Lascaris* Grammar of the first 
edition, well printed, but much less than 
later editions.^ 

* Dr. Johnson had a great admiration for 
Blenheim park, the measure of which may be 
estimated by this observation of his to Boswell, 
when they visited it together in 1776. "You 
and I, sir, have, I think, seen together the ex- 
tremes of what can be seen in Britain — the wild 
rough island of Mull, and Blenheim park." 

t This is a work written by William Durand, 
bishop of Mende, and printed on vellum, in folio, 
by Fust and Schoeffer, in Mentz, 1459. It is 
the third book that is known to be printed with 
a date, and is considered as a curious and ex- 
traordinary specimen of early printing. An im- 
perfect copy was sold at Dr. Askew's sale, Fe- 
bruary 22, 1775, for sixty-one pounds, to Mr. 
Elmsly, the bookseller. 

\ Dr. Johnson, in another column of his 
Diary, has put down, in a note, " First printed 



99 



The first Batrachomyomachia.* 
The duke sent Mr. Thrale partrid- 
ges and fruit. 

At night we came to Oxford. 

book in Greek, Lascaris's Grammar, 4to, Me- 
diolani, 1476." The imprint of this book is, 
Mtdiolani Imfiressum fier Magistrum IDiony- 
sium Paravisinum. M.CCCC.LXXVI. Die xxx 
Januarii, This edition is very rare, and it is 
probable that Dr. Johnson saw it now for the 
first time. A copy was purchased for the king's 
library at Dr. Askew's sale, 1775, for twenty- 
one pounds ten shillings. 

This was the first book that was ever print- 
ed in the Greek character. The first book print- 
ed in the English language was the History es of 
Troye, printed in \ 1471; an imperfect copy of 
which was put up to public sale in 1812, when 
there was a competition amongst men eminent 
for learning, rank, and fortune; and, according to 
their estimation of its value, it was sold for the 
sum of one thousand and sixty pounds ten shil- 
lings. — rffifiendix 9. 

* The Battle of the Frogs and Mice. The 
first edition was printed by Laonicus Cretensis, 



100 

23, We visited Mr. Coulson. The 
ladies wandered about the university. 

24. Kafr. We dine with Mr. Coul- 
son.* 

Vansittartf told me his distemper. 
Afterwards we were at Burke's, 

1 186. This book consists of forty-one pages, 
rjin all quarto, and the verses are printed "with 
i ed and black ink alternately. A copy was sold 
at Dr. Askew's sale, 1775, for fourteen guineas. 

* Mr. Coulson was a senior fellow of Uni- 
versity college; in habit and appearance some- 
what resembling Johnson himself, and was con- 
hi lered in his time as an Oxford character. He 
tcokhis degree of A. M. April 12, 1746. After 
this visit, Dr. Johnson told Mrs. Thrale that he 
was the man designated in the Rambler, under 
ihe name of Gelidus the philosopher. — See 
jlfifiendiX) 10. 

t Dr. Robert Vansittart, fellow of All Souls, 
and Regius professor of law, uncle to the pre^ 
sent chancellor of the exchequer. 



101 
where we heard of the dissolution of the 
parliament. We went home * 

* Mrs. Thrale says, « Dr. Johnson had al- 
ways a very great personal regard and particu- 
lar affection for Mr. Burke; and when at this 
time the general election broke up the delight- 
ful society in which wc had spent some time at 
Beaconsfield, Dr. Johnson shook the hospitable 
master of the house kindly by the hand, and 
said, < Farewell, my dear sir, and remember that 
I wish you all the success which ought to be 
wished you, which can possibly be wished you, 
by an honest man' * 



I 2 



102 
©PINIONS AND OBSERVATIONS, 

BY DR. JOHNSON. 



1. Life, to be worthy of a rational 
being, must be always in progression; 
we must always purpose to do more and 
better than in time past. 

2. Of real evils the number is great; 
of possible evils there is no end. 

3. The desire of fame not regulated, 
is as dangerous to virtue as that of mo' 
ney. 

4. Flashy, light, and loud conversa- 
tion, is often a cloak for cunning; as 
showy life, and a gay outside, spread 
now and then a thin covering over ava- 
liee and poverty. 

5. There are few minds to which 
tyranny is not delightful; power is no- 



103 

thing but as it is felt; and the delight of 
superiority is proportionate to the resis- 
tance overcome. 

6. Old times have bequeathed us a 
precept, to be merry and wise; but who 
has been able to observe it? Prudence 
soon comes to spoil our mirth. 

7. The advice that is wanted is com- 
monly unwelcome, and that which is not 
wanted is evidently impertinent. 

8. It is very rarely that an author is 
hurt by his critics. The blaze of repu- 
tation cannot be blown out, but it often 
dies in the socket; a very few names 
may be considered as perpetual lamps 
that shine unconsumed. 

9. There is no wisdom in useless 
and hopeless sorrow; but there is some- 
thing in it so like virtue, that he who is 
wholly without it, cannot be loved, nor 



104 

will, by me at least, be thought worthy of 

esteem. 

10. In the world there is much ten- 
derness where there is no misfortune, 
and much courage where there is no 

danger. 

11. He that has less than enough 
for himself, has nothing to spare; and as 
every man feels only his own necessi- 
ties," he is apt to think those of others 
less pressing, and to accuse them of with- 
holding what in truth they cannot give. 
He that has his foot firm upon dry 
ground may pluck another out of the 
water; but of those that are all afloat, 
none has any care but for himself. 

12. Attention and respect give plea- 
sure, however late or however useless. 
But they are not useless when they are 
late; it is reasonable to rejoice, as the day 



103 

declines, to find that it has been spent 
with the approbation of mankind. 

13. Cool reciprocations of esteem 
are the great comforts of life; hyperboli- 
cal praise only corrupts the tongue of 
the one, and the ear of the other. 

14. The fortuitous friendships of 
inclination or vanity, are at the mercy 
of a thousand accidents. 

15. A sudden blaze of kindness 
may, by a single blast of coldness, be 
extinguished. Esteem of great powers 
or amiable qualities newly discovered, 
may embroider a day or a week; but a 
friendship of twenty years is interwoven 
w T ith the texture of life. A friend may 
be often found and lost; but an old friend 
never can be found, and Nature has pro- 
vided that he cannot easily be lost. 

16. Incommunicative taciturnity nei- 
ther imparts nor invites friendship, but 



106 

reposes on a stubborn sufficiency self- 
centered, and neglects the interchange 
of that social officiousness by which we 
are habitually endeared to one another. 
To be without friendship, is to be with- 
out one of the first comforts of our pre- 
sent state. To have no assistance from 
other minds in resolving doubts, in ap- 
peasing scruples, in balancing delibera- 
tions, is a very wretched destitution. 

17. Faith in some proportion to 
fear. 



APPENDIX. 



No. I. — Page 15. 

The character of Mrs. Lucy Porter, Dr. John- 
son's step-daughter; by miss Seward, of Lich- 
field. 

" When she was in her bloom, she had a 
round face, and tolerably pretty features, though 
in the shadeless blankness of flaxen hair and 
eye-brows, and a clear skin. She had never 
any elegance of figure; but her rustic prettiness 
pleased the men. More than once she might 
have married advantageously; but as to the ena~ 
moured affections, 

" High Taurus' snow, fann'd by the eastern wind, 
Was not more cold." 

" She was one of those few beings, who, from 
a sturdy singularity of temper, and some promi- 
nent good qualities of head and heart, was ena- 
bled, even in her days of scanty maintenance to 



108 APPENDIX. 

make society glad to receive, and pet the 
grown spoiled child. Affluence was not her's 
till it came to her in her fortieth year, by the 
death of her eldest brother. From the age of 
twenty till that period, she had boarded in Lich- 
field with Dr. Johnson's mother, who still kept 
that little bookseller's shop, by which her hus- 
band had supplied the scanty means of existence. 
Meantime, Lucy Porter kept the best company 
of our little city, but would make no engagement 
on market-days! lest Granny, as she called Mrs. 
Johnson, should catch cold by serving in the 
shop. There Lucy Porter took her place, stand- 
ing behind the counter, nor thought it a dis- 
grace to thank a poor person who purchased 
from her a penny battledore. 

" With a marked vulgarity of address and 
language, and but little intellectual cultivation, 
she had a certain shrewdness of understanding, 
and piquant humour, with the most perfect truth 
and integrity. By these good traits in her charac- 
ter, were the most respectable inhabitants of this 
place induced to bear, with kind smiles, her 
mulish obstinacy, and per vers contradictions. 



APPENDIX. 109 

Johnson himself, often her guest, set the exam- 
ple, and extended to her that compliant in- 
dulgence which he showed not to any other 
person. I have heard her scold him like a 
school-boy, for soiling her floor with his shoes; 
for she was clean as a Dutch woman in her 
house, and exactly neat in her person. Dress 
too she loved in her odd way; but we will not 
assert that the Graces were her hand-maids. 
Friendly, cordial, and cheerful to those she loved; 
she was more esteemed, more amusing, and 
more regretted, than many a polished character, 
over whose smooth, but insipid surface, the at- 
tention of those who have mind passes listless 
and uninterested." 

She died January 13th, 1786, in the seventy- 
first year of her age. 



110 APPENBIX, 

No. II.— Page 15. 

Some account of Mrs. Elizabeth Aston, derived 
from a conversation between Dr. Johnson and 
Miss Seward. 

Miss Seward. —"I have often heard ray mo- 
ther say, doctor, that Mrs. Elizabeth Aston was, 
in her youth, a very beautiful woman; and that, 
with all the censoriousness and spiteful spleen 
of a very bad temper, she had great powers of 
pleasing; that she was lively, insinuating, and 
intelligent. 

" I knew her not till the vivacity of her youth 
had long been extinguished, and I confess I 
looked in vain for the traces of former ability. 
I wish to have your opinion, sir, of what she 
was, you who knew her so well in her best 
days. 

JDr. Johnson. — " My dear, when thy mother 
told thee Aston was handsome, thy mother told 
thee truth: she was very handsome. When thy 
mother told thee that Aston loved to abuse her 
neighbours, she told thee truth; but when thy 
mother told thee that Aston hadany^inarkeci 



APPENDIX. Hi 

ability in that same abusive business, that wit 
gave it zest, or imagination colour, thy mother 
did not tell thee truth. No, no, madam, Aston's 
understanding was not of any strength, either na- 
tive or acquired." 

Miss Seward.—" But, sir, I have heard you 
Say, that her sister's husband, Mr. Walmsley, 
was a man of bright parts, and extensive know- 
ledge; that he was also a man of strong passions, 
and, though benevolent in a thousand instances, 
yet irascible in as many. It is well known, that 
Mr. Walmsley was considerably governed by 
this lady; as witness Mr. Hinton's constant vi- 
sits, and presence at his table, in despite of its 
master's avowed aversion. Could it be, that, 
without some marked intellectual powers, she 
could obtain absolute dominion over such a 
man?" 

Dr. Johnson. — "Madam, I have said, and 
truly, that Walmsley had bright and extensive 
powers of mind; that they had been cultivated 
by familiarity with the best authors, and by con- 
nexions with the learned and polite. It is a fact, 
that Aston obtained nearly absolute dominion 



112 APPENDIX. 

over his will; it is no less a fact, that his disposi- 
tion was irritable and violent. But Walmsley 
was a man: and there is no man who can resist 
the repeated attacks of a furious woman. Walms- 
ley had no alternative but to submit, or turn 
her out of doors," 



No. III.— Page 18. 
Dr. Taylor of Ashbourn. 

Dr. Johnson, speaking of Dr. Taylor, said, 
u Taylor is a very sensible, acute man, and has 
a strong mind; he has great activity, in some 
respects, and yet he has such a sort of indo- 
lence, that if you should put a pebble upon his 
chimney-piece, you would find it there in the 
same state, a year afterwards. 

" His is a very pleasant house, with a lawn, a 
lake, and twenty deer and five fawns upon the 
lawn, and he himself is one of those who finds 
every hour something new to wish, or to enjoy. 



APPENDIX. 113 

" Dr. Taylor was much taken up in agricul* 
tural pursuits, and had great pleasure in having 
all the stock on his far of the best quality. 
In these pursuits, Johnson had no interest; and 
in his letters to Mr. Thrale, while he was stay- 
ing at his house, at different times, he says,-— 
i The Doctor is now all for cattle:— «I have seen 
the great bull, and very great he is: I have seen 
likewise his heir-apparent, who promises to in- 
herit all the bulk, and all the fortunes of his 
sire. I have seen the man who offered an hun- 
dred guineas for the young bull, while he was 
yet little better than a calf. — There has been a 
man here to-day to take a farm. After some 
talk, he went to see the bull, and said that he 
had seen a bigger. Do you think he is likely 
to get the farm? — Our bulls and cows are all 
well; but we yet hate the man that had seen a 
bigger bull. Taylor is now going to have a 
ram, and then, after Aries and Taurus, we shall 
have Gemini.— While I think on it, I will tell 
you what I really saw with my own eyes; Mr. 
Chaplin of Lincolshire's letter for Dr. Taylor's 



%% 



114 APPENDIX. 

cow, accompanied with a draft on Hoarc for one 
hundred and twenty six pounds to pay for her. 

" < The Doctor is busy in his fields, and goes 
to bed at nine, and his whole system is so differ- 
ent from mine, that we seem formed for differ- 
ent elements.' " 

Dr. Taylor died Feb. 19, 1788. 



No. IV.— Page 25. 

A description of Dovcdale^by Mr. Whateley. 

" Dovedale is about two miles in length, a 
deep, narrow, hollow valley; both the sides are of 
rock; and the Dove in its passage between them 
is perpetually changing in its course, its motion, 
and appearance. It is never less than ten, nor 
so much as twenty yards wide, and generally 
about four feet deep; but transparent to the bot- 
tom, except when it is covered with a foam of 
the purest white, under waterfalls which are 



APPENDIX. 115 

perfectly lucid: these are very numerous, but 
very different; in some places they stretch 
straight across, or aslant the stream; in others 
they are only partial; and the water either 
dashes against the stones, and leaps over them: 
or pouring along a steep, rebounds upon those 
below; sometimes it rushes through the several 
openings between them, sometimes it drops 
gently down; and at other limes it is driven back 
by the obstruction, and turns into an eddy. 

" In one particular spot, the valley almost clo- 
sing, leaves hardly a passage for the river, which 
pent up, and struggling for a vent, rages, and 
roars, and foams, till it has extricated itself from 
the confinement. In other parts, the stream, 
though never languid, is often gentle; flows 
round a little desert island, glides between aits 
of bulrushes, disperses itself among tufts of 
grass, or of moss, bubbles about a water-dock, 
or plays with the slender threads of aquatic 
plants which float upon its surface. 

" The rocks all along the dale vary as often 
in their structure, as the stream in its motion, 
and do not long present the same figure, or re- 



116 APPENDIX. 

lative position: in one place an extended surface 
gradually diminishes from a broad base, almost 
to an edge; in another, a heavy top hanging for- 
wards, overshadows all beneath; sometimes many 
different shapes are confusedly tumbled to- 
gether; and sometimes they are broken into slen- 
der sharp pinnacles, which rise upright, often 
two or three together, and often in more nu- 
merous clusters. On one side of the dale, they 
are universally bare; on the other, they are in- 
termixed with wood; and the vast height of both 
the sides, "with the narrowness of the interval 
between them, produces a further variety: for 
whenever the sun shines from behind the one, the 
form of it is distinctly and completely cast upon 
the other; the rugged surface on which it falls, 
diversifies the tints; and a strong reflected 
light often glares on the edge of the deepest 
shadow. 

" The breadth of the valley is never the 
same forty yards together; at the narrow pass 
which has been mentioned, the rocks almost 
meet at the top, and the sky is seen as through 
a chink between them: just by this gloomy 



APPENDIX. 117 

abyss, is a wider opening, more light, more ver- 
dure, more cheerfulness, than any where else in 
the dale. Nor are the forms and the situations 
of the rocks their only variety; many of them 
are perforated by large natural cavities; some 
of which open to the sky, some terminate in 
dark recesses: and through some, are to be seen 
several more uncouth arches, and rude pillars, 
all detached, and retiring beyond each other; the 
noise of the cascades in the river echoes amongst 
them; the water may often be heard at the same 
time gurgling near, and roaring at a distance; 
but no other sounds disturb the silence of the 
spot; the only trace of men is a blind path, but 
lightly and but seldom trodden by those whom 
curiosity leads to see the wonders they have 
been told of Dovedale." 



No. V.— Page 41. 

The Roman Hyfiocaust at Chester^ described, 

" The Hypocaust is of a triangular figure, 
supported by thirty-two pillars, two feet ten 



118 APPENDIX. 

inches and a half high, and about eighteen inches 
distant from each other. Upon each is a tile 
eighteen inches square, as if designed for a capi- 
tal; and over them a perforated tile, two feet 
square. Such are continued ail over the pillars. 
Above these are two layers; one of coarse mor- 
tar, mixed with small red gravel, about three 
inches thick; and the other of finer materials, 
between four and five inches thick; these seem 
to have been the floor of the room above. The 
pillars stand on a mortar floor, spread over the 
rock. On the south side, between the middle 
pillars, is the vent for the smoke, about six 
inches square, which is at present open to the 
height of sixteen inches. Here is also an an- 
techamber, exactly of the same extent with 
the Hypocaust, with an opening in the middle 
into it. This is sunk nearly two feet below the 
level of the former, and is of the same rectan- 
gular figure; so that both together are an exact 
square. This was the room allotted for the 
slaves who attended to heat the place; the other 
was the receptacle of the fuel designed to heat 
the room above the concamerata sudatio, or 



APPENDIX. 119 

sweating-chamber; where people were seated, 
either in niches, or on benches, placed one 
above the other, during the time of the opera- 
tion. Such was the object of this Hypocaust; 
for there were others of different forms, for the 
purpose of heating the water destined for the 
use of the bathers. 

*** See Vitruvius, book v. c. 10 and 11 ; and the 
plates at the end of Newton's translation, vol. i. 



No. VI.— Page 61. 

Dr. Johnson's Pleasures of the Table^ as given 
by Mrs. Thrale. 

" His favourite dainties were, a leg of pork 
foiled till it dropped from the bone, a veal-pye, 
with plums and sugar, or the outside cut of a salt 
buttock of beef. With regard to drink, his li- 
king was for the strongest, as it was not the fla- 
vour, but the effect he sought for, and professed 



120 APPENDIX. 

to desire; and when I first knew him, he used to 
pour capillaire into his port wine. For the last 
twelve years, however, he left off all fermented 
liquors. To make himself some amends, in- 
deed, he took his chocolate liberally, pouring in 
large quantities of cream, or even melted but- 
ter; and was so fond of fruit, that though he 
usually ate seven or eight peaches of a morn- 
ing before breakfast began, and treated them 
with proportionate attention after dinner again, 
yet I have heard him protest that he never had 
quite so much as he wished of wall-fruit, ex- 
cept once in his life, and that was when we were 
all together at Ombersley, the seat of my lord 
Sandys.* 

" Upon excess in eating, Johnson thus ex- 
presses himself: " Gluttony is, Ithink, less com- . 
mon among women, than among men. Women 
commonly eat more sparingly, and are less cu- 
rious in the choice of meat; but if once you find 
a woman gluttonous, expect from her very lit- 

* Sept. 13, 1774, page 92. 



APPENDIX. 121 

tie virtue. Her mind is enslaved to the lowest 
and grossest temptation. " 



No. VII.— Page 74. 

General Pasquale de Paolu His first Inter- 
view with Dr. Johnson, October 10, 1769. 

" In this interview, the general spoke Italian, 
and Dr. Johnson, English; and the interview is 
thus described by Boswell. 

" Upon Johnson's approach, the general 
said, ' From what I have read of you works, sir, 
and from what Mr. Boswell has told me of you, 
I have long held you in great veneration.' The 
general talked of languages being formed on 
the particular notions and manners of a people, 
without knowing which, we cannot know the 
the language. We may know the direct sig- 
nification of single words; but by these, no beau- 
ty of expression, no sally of genius, no wit, is 
conveyed to the mind. All this must be by allu- 

L 



222 APPENDIX. 

sion to other ideas. ' Sir, (said Johnson,) you 
talk of language, as if you had never done any 
thing else but study it, instead of governing a 
nation.' The general said, ' Questo e un trop- 
po gran complimento:' this is too great a com- 
pliment. Johnson answered, i I should have 
thought so, sir, if I had not heard you talk.' 
The general asked him what he thought of the 
spirit of infidelity which was so prevalent. — 
Johnson. ' Sir, this gloom of infidelity, I hope, 
is only a transient cloud passing through the he- 
misphere, which will soon be dissipated, and 
the sun break forth with his usual splendour/ 
— ' You think then (said the general,) that they 
will change their principles like their clothes. 3 
— Johnson. i Why, sir, if they bestow no more 
thought on principles than on dress, it must be 
so.' The general said, that < a great part of the 
fashionable infidelity was owing to a desire of 
showing courage. Men who have no opportu- 
nities of showing it as to things in this life, take 
death and futurity, as objects on which to dis- 
play it.'— Johnson. i That is mighty foolish 



APPENDIX. 123 

affectation. Fear is one of the passions of human 
nature, of which it is impossible to divest it. 
You remember that the emperor Charles V. 
when he read upon the tomb-stone of a Spanish 
nobleman, 4 Here lies one who never knew 
fear,' wittily said, < Then he never snuffed a 
candle with his fingers.' 

" He talked a few words of French to the gen- 
eral; but finding he did not do it with facility, he 
asked for pen, ink, and paper, and wrote the fol- 
lowing note: 

" ' J'ai lu dans la geographie de Lucas de 
Linda un Pater-noster ecrit dans une langue tout- 
d-fait differente de l'ltalienne, et de toutes autres 
lesquelles se derivent du Latin. L'auteur l'ap- 
pelle linguam Corsica rusticam: elle a peut-etre 
passe, peu a peu; mais elle a certainement pre- 
value autrefois dans les montagnes et dans la 
campagne. Le meme auteur dit la meme chose 
en parlant de Sardaigne; qu'il y a deux langues 
dans l'isle, une des villes, l'autre de la cam- 
pagne.* 1 

" The general immediately informed him 
that the lingua rustica was only in Sardinia. 



124 APPENDIX. 

" Dr. Johnson went home with me, and drank 
tea till late in the night. He said, ' general 
Paoli had the loftiest port of any man he had 
ever seen. 5 " 



No. VII I.— Page 79. 

On recollecting fiast Times. 

" Johnson's reflections on Mrs. Thrale's 
visiting the house where she was born, tinged 
his mind with gloom: " such pleasures are al- 
ways melancholy:" there were times, however, 
when he himself enjoyed this retrospective plea- 
sure. " I would have been glad to go to Hag- 
ley, in compliance with Mr. Lyttleton's kind in- 
vitation; for beside the pleasure of his conversa- 
tion, I should have had the opportunity of re- 
collecting past times, and wandering fier montes 
notos et Jlumina nota, of recalling the images of 
sixteen, and reviewing my conversations with 



APPENDIX. 125 

poor Ford. But this year will not bring this 
gratification within my power." July 8, 1771. 



No. IX.— Page 99. 

On early Printing. 

The first book ever printed, with a date, is 
a Latin psalter, in black letter; printed by Fust 
and Schoeffer, in Mentz; August 14, 1457. 

The first Latin classic ever printed, was Ci-^ 
cero's Offices, printed in Mentz, 1465. 

The first Greek book that was printed, is 
Lascaris's Greek Grammar, printed in Milan, 
January 30, 1476. 

The first Greek classic that was printed was 
an edition of the Iliad and the Odyssey, printed 
in Florence, 14S8, in 2 vols, folio. 

The first book printed in the English lan- 
guage, is the Recueyell of the History es of 
Troye> in 1471; but the first book printed in 
England, is the Game of Chess, in 1474: both 
printed in black tetter, by Caxton. 
12 ■ 



126 APPENDIX. 

Down to the year 1540, the university of 
Oxford had printed but one classic, which was 
a book of Tully's epistles, printed at the ex- 
pense of cardinal Wolsey. Cambridge has not 
printed any classic at this time. 

The first Greek book printed in England, 
was the Homilies, printed in 1543, at the ex- 
pense of sir John Cheke, who established the 
Greek lecture at Cambridge. 

From these facts, England, with its two splen- 
did universities, together with all its resources 
of wealth and learning, was sixty- seven years 
later than Milan, in adding to Greek literature 
from its own press; and, after Mentz had printed 
a Latin classic, Oxford followed at the respect- 
ful distance of seventy-five years. 

That commercial cities on the continent at 
this aera should have so far-outstripped us in 
emulation, is extraordinary; when, in the nine- 
teenth century, to collect the scattered frag- 
ments of early typography, without limitation 
of expense, and without discrimination of their 
worth, has been sufficient to confer distinction 
on men of the first rank and fortune of our time 



APPENDIX. 127 

Upon this subject, the reader may be amused 
and instructed in Mr. D'Israeli's Curiosities of 
Literature. An author, from whose various 
works much pleasure and information is always 
to be found; and his romance of Mejnoun and 
Leila, gives him a place in that department of 
English Literature, which is not contested by 
any writer of the present day. 



No. X.— Page 100. 

Mr. Coulson, Fellow of University College. His 
character designated under the name of Geli- 
dus, in the Rambler, No. 24. 

" Gelidus is a man of great penetration, 
and deep researches. Having a mind naturally 
formed for the abstruser sciences, he can compre- 
hend intricate combinations without confusion; 
and being of a temper naturally cool and equal, 
he is seldom interrupted by his passions, in the 
pursuit of the longest chain of unexpected con- 



128 APPENDIX. 

sequences. He has, therefore, a long time in- 
dulged hopes, that the solution of some pro- 
blems, by which the professors of science have 
been hitherto baffled, is reserved for his genius 
and industry. He spends his time in the high- 
est room of his house, into which none of his 
family are suffered to enter; and when he comes 
down to his dinner, or his rest, he walks about 
like a stranger, that is there only for a day, with- 
out any tokens of regard or tenderness. He has 
totally divested himself of all human sensa- 
tions; he has neither eye for beauty, nor ear for 
complaint; he neither rejoices at the good for- 
tune of his nearest friend, nor mourns for any 
public or private calamity. Having once receiv- 
ed a letter, and given it to his servant to read, 
he was informed, that it was written by his bro- 
ther, who, being shipwrecked, had swam naked 
to land, and was destitute of necessaries in a fo- 
reign country. Naked and destitute ! says Geli- 
dus; reach down the last volume of meteorolo- 
gical observations, extract an exact account of 
the wind, and note it carefully in the diary of the 
weather. 



APPENDIX. 129 

w The family of Gelidus once broke into his 
study, to show him that a town at a small dis- 
tance was on fire, and in a few moments a ser- 
vant came to tell him, that the flame had caught 
so many houses on both sides, that the inhabi- 
tants were confounded, and began to think of ra- 
ther escaping with their lives, than saving their 
dwellings. What you tell me, says Gelidus, is 
very probable, for fire naturally acts in a circle. 

" Thus lives this great philosopher, insensi~ 
ble to every spectacle of distress, and unmoved 
by the loudest call of social nature, for want of 
considering that men are designed for the suc- 
cour and comfort of each other; that though 
there are hours which may be laudably spent 
upon knowledge not immediately useful, yet the 
first attention is due to practical virtue; and that 
he may be justly driven out from the commerce 
of mankind, who has so far abstracted himself 
from the species, as to partake neither of the 
joys nor griefs of others, but neglects the en- 
dearments of his wife, and the caresses of his 
children, to count the drops of rain, note the 



130 APPENDIX. 



changes of the wind, and calculate the eclipses 
of the moons of Jupiter." 



THK END 



CONSIDERATIONS ON CORN, 

BY 
SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D. 



The little essay on the Corn Laws, by Dr. 
Johnson is in the very best style of that great 
master of reason. It was written so early as 
1766; and, at a period when subjects of this 
kind were but imperfectly understood, even by 
those who devoted themselves to their study. 
It is truly admirable to see with what vigorous 
alacrity his powerful mind could apply itself to 
an investigation so foreign from his habitual oc- 
cupations. We do not know that a more sound 
and enlightened argument, in favour of the 
bounty on exportation, could be collected from 
all that has been since published on the sub- 
ject; and convinced, as we ourselves are, of the 
radical insufficiency of that argument, it is im- 
possible not to be delighted with the clearness 
and force of the statement. There are few of 
his smaller productions that show the great 
range of Johnson's capacity in a more striking 
light than this short essay. 

From the Edinburgh Review— Oct. 1809. 



M 



CONSIDERATIONS ON CORN, 

By SAMUEL JOHNSON, LL.D. 



By what causes the necessaries of life 
have risen to a price at which a great part of 
the people are unable to procure them, how 
the present scarcity may be remedied, and ca- 
lamities of the same kind may for the future be 
prevented, is an inquiry of the firstjimportance; 
an inquiry before which all the considerations 
which commonly busy the legislature vanish 
from the view. 

The interruption of trade, though it may 
distress part of the community, leaves the rest 
power to communicate relief; the decay of one 
manufacture may be compensated by the ad- 



136 

vancement of another; a defeat may be repaired 
by victory; a rupture with one nation may be 
balanced by an alliance with another. These 
are partial and slight misfortunes, which leave 
us still in the possession of our chief comforts. 
They may lop some of our superfluous plea- 
sures, and repress some of our exorbitant hopes; 
but we may still retain the essential part of 
civil and of private happiness,— the security 
of law, and the tranquillity of content. They 
are small obstructions of the stream, which 
raise a foam and noise where they happen to 
be found, but at a little distance are neither 
seen nor felt, and suffer the main current to 
pass forward in its natural course. 

But seARciTY is an evil that extends at 
once to the whole community: that neither 
leaves quiet to the poor, nor safety to the rich; 
that in its approaches distresses all the subor- 
dinate ranks of mankind, and in its extremity 
must subvert government, drive the populace 
upon their rulers, and end in bloodshed and 
massacre. Those who want the supports of 
life will seek them wherever they can be found. 



137 

If in any place there are more than can be fed, 
some must be expelled, or some must be des- 
troyed. 

Of this dreadful scene there is no immedi- 
ate danger; but there is already evil sufficient 
to deserve and require all our diligence and all 
our wisdom. The miseries of the poor are such 
as cannot easily be borne; such as have already 
incited them in many parts of the kingdom to 
an open defiance of government, and produced 
one of the greatest of political evils, — the ne- 
cessity of ruling by immediate force. 

Caesar declared after the battle of Munda, 
that he had often fought for victory, but that 
he had that day fought for life. We have often 
deliberated how we should prosper; we are now 
to inquire how we shall subsist. 

The present scarcity is imputed by some 
to the bounty for exporting corn, which is con- 
sidered as having a necessary and perpetual 
tendency to pour the grain of this country into 
other nations. 

This position involves two questions; whe- 
ther the present scarcity has been caused 
m 2 



138 



by the bounty, and whether the bounty is likely 
to produce scarcity in future times. 

It is |an un controverted principle, that sub- 
lata causa tollitur effectus: if therefore the effect 
continues when the supposed cause has ceased, 
that effect must be imputed to some other 
agency. 

The bounty has ceased, and the exporta- 
tion would still continue, if exportation were 
permitted. The true reason of the scarcity 
is the failure of the harvest; and the cause 
of exportation is the like failure in other coun- 
tries, where they grow less, and where they are 
therefore always nearer to the danger of want. 

This want is such, that in countries where 
money is at a much higher value than with us, 
the inhabitants are yet desirous to buy our corn 
at a price to which our own markets have not 
risen. 

If we consider the state of those countries, 
which being accustomed to buy our corn chea- 
per than ourselves when it was cheap, are now 
reduced to the necessity of buying it dearer 
than ourselves when it is dear, we shall yet 



139 

have reason to rejoice in our own exemption 
from the extremity of this wide-extended ca- 
lamity: and if it be necessary to inquire why 
we suffer scarcity, it may be fit to consider 
likewise, why we suffer yet less scarcity than 
our neighbours. 

That the bounty upon cern has produced 
plenty, is apparent. 

Because ever since the grant of the bounty, 
agriculture has increased: scarce a session has 
passed without a law for enclosing commons 
and waste grounds: 

Much land has been subjected to tillage., 
which lay uncultivated with little profit: 

Yet, though the quantity of land has been 
thus increased, the rent, which is the price of 
land, has generally increased at the same tim£. 

That more land is appropriated to tillage, 
is a proof that more corn is raised; and that the 
rents have not fallen, proves that no more fa 
raised than can readily be sold. 



140 

But it is urged, that exportation, though 
it increases our produce, diminishes our plenty: 
that the merchant has more encouragement for 
exportation, than the farmer for agriculture. 

This is a paradox which all the principles 
of commerce and all the experience of policy 
concur to confute. Whatever is done for gain, 
will be done more as more gain is to be ob- 
tained. 

Let the effects of the bounty be minutely 
considered. 

The state of every country with respect to 
corn is varied by the chances of the year. 

Those to whom we sell our corn, must 
have every year either more corn than they 
Want, or as much as they want, or less than 
they want. We likewise are naturally subject 
to the same varieties. 

When they have corn equal to their wants, 
or more, the bounty has no effect; for they will 
not buy what they do not want, unless our exu- 
berance be such as tempts them to store it for 
another year. This case must suppose that our 
produce is redundant and useless to ourselves; 



14L 

and therefore the profit of exportation produces 
no inconvenience. 

When they want corn, they must buy of 
us, and buy at a higher price; in this case, if 
we hare corn more than enough for ourselves, 
we are again benefited by supplying them. 

But they may want, when we have no su- 
perfluity. When our markets rise, the bounty 
ceases; and therefore produces no evil. They 
cannot buy our corn but at an higher rate than 
it is sold at home. If their necessities', as noW 
has happened, force them to give an higher 
price, that event is no longer to be charged upon 
the bounty. We may then stop our corn in our 
ports, and pour it back upon our own markets. 

It is in all cases to be considered, what 
events are physical and certain, and what are 
political and arbitrary. 

The first effect of the bounty is the increase 
of agriculture, and by consequence the promo™ 
tion of plenty. This is an effect physically good, 
and morally certain. While men are desirous 
to be rich, where there is profit there will be 
diligence. If much corn can be sold, much will 
be raised. 



142 

The second effect of the bounty is the di= 
minution by exportation of that product which 
it occasioned. But this effect is political and 
arbitrary; we have it wholly in our own hands: 
we can prescribe its limits and regulate its 
quantity* Whenever we feel want or fear it, 
we retain our corn, and feed ourselves upon that 
which was sown and raised to feed other nations. 

It is perhaps impossible for human wisdom 
to go further, than to contrive a law of which 
the good is certain and uniform, and the evil, 
though possible in itself, yet always subject to 
certain and effectual restraints. 

This is the true state of the bounty upon 
corn: it certainly and necessarily increases our 
crops, and can never lessen them but by our 
own permission. 

That notwithstanding the bounty there have 
been from time to time years of scarcity, cannot 
be denied. But who can regulate the seasons? 
In the dearest years we owe to the bounty that 
they have not been dearer. We must always 
suppose part of our ground sown for our own 
consumption, and part in hope of a foreign sale= 



143 

The time sometimes comes, when the product 
of all this land is scarcely sufficient; but if the 
whole be too little, how great would have been 
the deficiency, if we had sown only that part 
which was designed for ourselves. 

" But perhaps, if exportation were less en- 
couraged, the superfluous, stores of plentiful 
years might be laid up by the farmer against 
years of scarcity?" 

This may be justly answered by affirming, 
that, if exportation were discouraged, we should 
have no years of plenty. Cheapness is produced 
by the possibility of dearness. Our farmers at 
present plow and sow with the hope that some 
country will always be in want, and that they 
shall grow rich by supplying. Indefinite hopes 
are always carried by the frailty of human na- 
ture beyond reason. While therefore exporta- 
tion is encouraged, as much corn will be raised 
as the farmer can hope to sell, and therefore 
generally more than can be sold at the price of 
which he dreamed, when he plowed and sowed. 

The greatest part of our corn is well known 
to be raised by those who pay rent for the 



144 

ground which they employ, and of whom few 
can bear to delay the sale of one year's produce 
to another. 

It is therefore vain to hope that large stocks 
of grain will ever remain in private hands: he 
that has not sold the corn of last year will with 
diffidence and reluctance till his field again; the 
accumulation oi a few years would end in a 
vacation of agriculture, and the husbandman 
would apply himself to some more profitable 
calling. 

If the exportation of corn were totally pro- 
hibited, the quantity possible to be consumed 
among us would be quickly known, and being 
known, would rarely be exceeded; for why 
should corn be gathered which cannot be sold? 
We should therefore have little superfluity in 
the most favourable seasons; for the farmer, like 
the rest of mankind, acts in hope of success, and 
the harvest seldom outgoes the expectation of 
the spring. But for droughts or blights we 
should never be provided; any intemperature of 
seasons would reduce us to distress which we 



145 

now only read of in our histories: what is now 
scarcity would then be famine. 

What would be caused by prohibiting ex- 
portation, will be caused in a less degree by 
obstructing* it, and in some degree by every de- 
duction of encouragement: as we lessen hope, 
we shall lessen labour; as we lessen labour, we 
shall lessen plenty. 

It must always be steadily remembered, that 
the good of the bounty is certain, and evil avoida- 
ble; that by the hope of exportation corn will 
be increased, and that this increase may be 
Icept at home. 

Plenty can only be produced by encoura- 
ging agriculture, and agriculture can be encou- 
raged only by making it gainful. No influence 
can dispose the farmer to sow what he cannot 
sell; and if he is not to have the chance of scar- 
city in his favour, he will take care that there 
never shall be plenty. 

The truth of these principles our ancestors 
discovered by reason, and the French have now 
found it by experience. In this regulation we 
have the honour of being masters to those, who 



£ 



246 

in commercial policy have been long accounted 
the masters of the world. Their prejudices, 
their emulation, and their vanity, have at last 
submitted to learn of us how to ensure the 
bounties of nature; and it forms a strange vicissi- 
tude of opinions, that should incline us to re- 
peal the law which our rivals are adopting. 

It may be speciously enough proposed, that 
the bounty should be discontinued sooner. Of 
this every man will have his own opinion; which, 
as no general principles can reach it, will al- 
ways seem to him mere reasonable than that of 
another. This is a question of which the state 
is always changing with time and place, and 
which it is therefore very difficult to state or to 
discuss. 

It may however be considered, that the 
change of old establishments is always an evil; 
and that therefore, where the good of the change 
is not certain and constant, it is better to pre- 
serve that reverence and that confidence which 
is produced by consistency of conduct and per- 
manency of laws:— - 

That since the bounty was so iixed, the price 
of money has been much diminished; so that 



J 47 

the bounty does not operate so far as when it 
was first fixed, but the price at which it ceases, 
though nominally the same, has in effect and 
in reality gradually diminished. 

It is difficult to discover any reason why 
that bounty which has produced so much good 
and has hitherto produced no harm, should be 
withdrawn or abated. It is possible, that if it 
were reduced lower, it would still be the mo- 
tive of agriculture and the cause of plenty; but 
why we should desert experience for conjec- 
ture, and exchange a known for a possible good., 
will not easily be discovered. If by a balance 
of probabilities, in which a grain of dust may 
turn the scale, — or by a curious scheme of cal- 
culation, in which if one postulate in a thou- 
sand be erroneous, the deduction which promises 
plenty may end in famine, — if by a specious 
mode of uncertain ratiocination, the critical 
point at which the bounty should stop, might 
seem to be discovered, I shall still continue to 
believe that it is more safe to trust what we 
have already tried; and cannot but think bread 
a product of too much importance to be made 



148 

the sport of subtility, and the topic of hypotheti- 
cal disputation. 

Ttie advantage of the bounty is evident and 
irrefragable. Since the bounty was given, mul- 
titudes eat wheat who did not eat it before, and 
yet the price of wheat has abated. What more 
is to be hoped from any change of practice? An 
alteration cannot make our condition better, and 
is therefore very likely to make it worse. 



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